Dr. Heather Marie Akou - Fashion Historian and Academic Leader

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Dr. Heather Marie Akou is an accomplished Associate Professor of Fashion Design with a keen interest in the history of fashion, dress, and the body. With a wealth of academic appointments and administrative roles, she has received several honors and awards for her research endeavors related to African dress, Islamic fashion, and more. Her work spans across various publications, including books and peer-reviewed articles, showcasing her expertise in the field.


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  1. Dr.HeatherMarie Akou AssociateProfessorof FashionDesign(withtenure) Education PhD,UniversityofMinnesota(2005) MA, University of Minnesota (2001) Design,Housing,andApparel BA,MacalesterCollege(1998) Art(Studio) Academicappointments IndianaUniversity,Bloomington(2011-present) AssociateProfessorofFashionDesign EskenaziSchoolof Art,Architecture+ Design I m a historian of fashion, dress,and thebody. IndianaUniversity,Bloomington(2004-2011) Assistant Professor of Fashion Design ApparelMerchandisingand InteriorDesign My research interests include African dress and fashion, Islamic fashion, the politics of dress, workingclass histories of dress in the US, museum collections,andnarratives aboutdressand thebody. Administrativeappointments EskenaziSchool of Art,Architecture+ Design FashionDesignprogramdirector(2019-present) Directorof the SageCollection(2017-2021) ApparelMerchandisingand InteriorDesign DepartmentChair(2014-2017) AssociateChair(2013-14) I m currently working on a new monograph about the historyofservice industry uniforms in the US. I m also gathering data about secret society regalia from theearly 20th century. Honorsand awards IUInstituteforAdvancedStudy Grantforcollaborativeresearch- $3,180(2022) hakou@iu.edu IUOfficeof the Bicentennial Grant forthe SageCollection- $10,000 (2018) BigTenAcademicAlliance DepartmentalExecutive Officerprogram(2016-17) IUNewFrontiersinthe Arts+ Humanities Grant forresearch- $30,000 (2012)

  2. Activemembershipsin professional societies CostumeSocietyof America(NorthAmerica) https://costumesocietyamerica.com Associationof DressHistorians(UK) https://dresshistorians.org PopularCultureAssociation(PCA) https://pcaaca.org/ DressandBodyAssociation(international) https://www.dress-body-association.org Affiliationsat Indiana University Corefaculty forMA inCuratorshipprogram,2021-present Adjunct AssociateProfessorofArt History,2017-present Adjunct Associate Professor of Middle Eastern Languages and Cultures, 2014-present Adjunct AssociateProfessorofAnthropology,2009-present Affiliate,CenterforStudiesof the MiddleEast, 2010-present Affiliate,IslamicStudiesProgram,2008-present Affiliate,AfricanStudiesProgram,2004-present Research Allpublicationsare single-authored unlessotherwise noted Denotes workat the rankof associateprofessor(not consideredfor tenure) Books (undercontract), OnetheJob: A Historyof American Work Uniforms, London:BloomsburyAcademic(in- progressdraftiscurrently50,000 words;slated for publicationin2024) JoAnn McGregor,HeatherAkou, and NicolaStylianou,eds. (2022), CreatingAfricanFashionHistories: Politics,Museums, and Sartorial Practices,Bloomington:IndianaUniversityPress(360 pages) (2011), ThePoliticsof Dress inSomaliCulture,Bloomington:IndianaUniversityPress (200 pages)

  3. Peer-reviewed articlesand chapters (inpress), IslamicFashion, RoutledgeHandbookof IslamicRitualandPractice,editedby Oliver Leaman(5,000 words) (inpress), Food-ServiceUniformsand the Symbolism(s)of Wearinga Mask, ClothingCultures (6,500 words) (2022), StoriesBehindthe Collectionsand WhyTheyMatter: ThreeExamples fromIndiana University, CreatingAfricanFashion Histories,eds. JoAnn McGregor,HeatherAkou, and Nicola Stylianou,Bloomington:IndianaUniversityPress,pp. 229-251(8,000 words) (2021), PlayingPocahontas:SecretSocietyRegaliafor Womeninthe UnitedStates,1900-1950, The Journalof Dress History,5(5): pp. 8-42.(7,500 words) (2021), ThePoliticsof Coveringthe Face:Fromthe Burqa Ban to the Facekini, Fashion Theory, 25(1): pp.5-30,originallypublishedonlineby FashionTheoryin2018 (9,000 words),DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2018.1546491 (2020), PrisonUniformson theOutside:IntersectionswithUSPopularCulture, Fashion,Style& PopularCulture,7(4): pp.473-499(8,000 words) (2020), Freedomof Speech:A Recent Historyof PoliticalT-shirtsinthe UnitedStates,Clothing Cultures,specialissueon DressDuringTimesof Unrest, 6(2):pp. 179-198(6,000 words) (2019), TetelaAmulets:Reinterpretinga MedicalAnthropology Collectionas a Fashion Benchmark, InternationalJournalof Fashion Studies, 6(2),pp. 163+ (6,500 words)DOI: https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00002_1 (2019), : (Politicsand Concealment:Fromthe Ban on the Burqato the Facekini),Russian Fashion Theory,53(4): pp.205- 232(9,000words) (2015), BecomingVisible:The Role of the InternetinDressChoicesamongNative-BornConverts to IslaminNorth America, HAWWA:Journalof Womenof theMiddleEastandtheIslamicWorld,13(3): pp.279-296(6,500words) (2013), ABriefHistoryof the Burqini:Confessionsand Controversies, Dress, 39(1): pp.25-35 (5,500 words) (2012), TheChangingPoliticsof Textilesas Portrayedon SomaliPostageStamps, proceedingsof the TextileSocietyofAmerica,(3,000 words), https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1653&context=tsaconf (2010), Interpreting Islam through the Internet: Making Sense of Hijab, Contemporary Islam 4: pp. 331-346. (2010), HateCrimesand Profiling, September11in PopularCulture:A Guide,eds. SaraE Quayand AmyM.Damico,SantaBarbara,California:ABC-CLIO,pp.29-30.

  4. Peer-reviewed articlesand chapters(continued) (2010), LookingLikea Terrorist, September11in PopularCulture:A Guide,eds.SaraE. Quayand Amy M. Damico,SantaBarbara,California:ABC-CLIO,p. 13 (2010), Dressing Somali (Some Assembly Required), Contemporary African Fashion, eds. Suzanne Gott and KristyneLoughran,Bloomington:IndianaUniversityPress,pp. 191-204. (2010), HeadCoveringsinthe VirtualUmma:TheCase of Niqab, Proceedingsof the TextileSocietyof America (3,000 words),http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/3/ (2008), Documentingthe Originsof SomaliFolk Dress:Evidencefromthe BonaparteCollection, Dress 33,pp.7-19. (2007), More than Costume History: Dress in Somali Culture, Dress Sense: Emotional and Sensory Experience of the Body and Clothes, eds. Donald Clay Johnson and Helen Bradley Foster, Oxford: Berg Publishers,pp. 16-22. (2007), Building a New World Fashion : Islamic Dress in the 21st Century, Fashion Theory 11(4): pp. 403-421. (2004), NationalismWithoutaNation:Understandingthe Dressof SomaliWomeninMinnesota, FashioningAfrica:Powerand thePoliticsof Dress, Bloomington:IndianaUniversityPress,pp. 50-63. Editor-reviewedresearch publications (inpress), BeyondListening:SystemicTransformationinFashionStudiesand FashionCollections, AfricanArts(1,000 words) (2021), (ServiceUniformsand Masksas Symbols), : (Dressing and BodyPractices in a PandemicEra), ed. Liuda Aliabieva,Moscow:NewLiteraryObserver,pp.165-169.(2,500 words) (2021) 'TellingHistorythroughCostumes, TheArt of theCharacter:Highlightsfrom theGlennClose CostumeCollection,London:Scala Arts& HeritagePublishers,pp. 55-63 (3,000 words) (2019), MuslimDress, BergFashionLibrary,BibliographicGuides.Oxford:BloomsburyAcademic Publishing.DOI:10.5040/BIBART16002 (5,000 words) (2018), TheElizabethSageHistoricCostumeCollection:A CriticalReviewof Usesfor Teachingand Research, AmericanCraftInquiry,2(2): 52-60(3,000 words) (2014), Burqini, Encyclopediaof World Dress andFashion,volume11, ed.Joanne B. Eicher.Oxford: BloomsburyAcademicPublishing,DOI:10.2752/BEWDF/EDch10721(3,500 words) (2010), Somalia, Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, volume 1, eds. Joanne B. Eicher and Doran Ross,Oxford:BergPublishers,pp. 413-420. (2007-2009), Is Therean Islamic Dress?Evidencefromthe InternetGeneration, Khil aJournalfor Textilesof theIslamicWorld3: pp.1-16.

  5. Researchlectures (2022), CompanyPolicy:A Historyof PullmanPorterUniforms,1865-1965, CostumeSocietyof America (juried,heldinMinneapolis-St.Paul) (2022), IslamicFashionand Anti-Fashion, Universityof Georgia(invited, Diversityin Fashion series) (2022), TastefulIt sNot :The Riseof Mass-Manufacturingand WaitressUniformsinthe US, Popular CultureAssociation(juried,heldonlinefromthe UnitedStates) (2021), PlayingPocahontas:Performing(White)Womanhoodand Leadershipthrough SecretSociety Regalia, Dressand Body Association(juried,held onlinefrom the UnitedStates) (2020), FleshingOut HistoricalFiction:FashionInfluencers, Dressand Body Association(juried,held onlinefromthe UnitedStates) (2020), Service-IndustryUniformsandthe Symbolism(s)of WearingaMask, NewNormalsymposium, FashionResearchNetwork(invited,held onlinefrom Moscowby Russian FashionTheory) (2020), ReflectingPopularCulture inMuseums(or Not): The Case of PrisonUniforms, PopularCulture Association(juried,canceleddue to COVID-19) (2018), Globalization,FashionScholarship,and FashionCollections:TheElizabethSageHistoricCostume Collectionat Indiana University, Framingthe Global symposium(juried,held at IndianaUniversity) (2018), CreatingAfricanFashionHistories:HowFashionCollectionsHaveInfluencedthe Study of Fashion, AmericanCraft Council(invited,held inMinneapolis) (2016), TheLegacyof MaryWarren:A Collectionat IndianaUniversity, CreatingAfricanFashionHistories symposium(invited,held inBrighton,UK) (2015), Best Practicesinthe Collectionof AfricanDress:The MaryWarrenCollection, Costume Societyof America(juried,heldinSanAntonio) (2012), Reflectionson SomaliDress:Islam,Gender,and Globalization, Departmentof African,Middle Eastern,and South AsianLanguagesand Literatures,RutgersUniversity(invited) (2012), TheChangingPoliticsof Textilesas PortrayedonSomaliPostageStamps, TextileSocietyof America(juried,held inWashington,DC) (2012), ABriefHistoryof the Burqini:Confessionsand Controversies, CostumeSocietyof America (juried,held inAtlanta) (2010), HeadCoveringsinthe VirtualUmma, TextileSocietyof America(juried,held inLincoln, Nebraska) (2010), IslamicSwimsuits:FillingaNeedor Creatinga NewOne? VeiledConstellations(juried, symposiumat the Universityof Toronto)

  6. Research lectures(continued) (2009), Dressing for Islam: The Role of the Internet, Society for the Anthropology of Religion (juried, held inPacificGrove,California) (2008), IslamicFashion:Reflectingand Shapinga Macroculture, AmericanAnthropological Association(juried,held inSanFransisco) (2007), Fashioningan Imageof IslamicDress:Contributionsfrom InternetCommerce, American Councilforthe Study of IslamicSocieties(juriedand accepted,didnot attendfor health reasons) (2007), Interpreting Images of Somali Dress: Photographs from the World s Fair, Arts Council of the AfricanStudiesAssociation(juried,heldat the Universityof Florida) (2005), The ABCs of Somali Dress: An Evaluation of DeLong s Expert Viewer s Framework, InternationalTextilesandApparel Association(juried,heldinBoston) (2005), Morethan CostumeHistory:TheDefinitionof Dressand SomaliAestheticsof the Body, Sensesand Sentimentsof Dress(juried,held at the Universityof Minnesota) (2004), Ruiningthe Country:TheAestheticsof SomaliDress,1960-1991, AfricanStudies Association(juried,heldinWashington,DC) (2004), From Merikani Cloth to LifeinAmerica:SomaliDressand the Cultural Authenticationof ImportedTextiles, TextileSocietyof America(juried,held inOakland,California) (2004), TheConstructionof AfricanDress inMinnesota, ArtsCouncilof the AfricanStudies Association(juried,held inBoston) (2003), EthnicDress?UnderstandingSomalisinMinneapolis-St.Paul, InternationalTextileand ApparelAssociation(juried,heldinSavannah, Georgia) (2003), TheCase of SomaliWomen sDressinMinnesota:EvaluatingHerbertBlumer sTheoryon Fashion, Making an Appearance: Fashion, Dress, and Consumption (juried, symposium at the Universityof Queensland,Australia) (2003), FromDesertto Diaspora:A Historyof Global Influences on SomaliDress, CostumeSocietyof America(juried,held inCharleston,South Carolina) (2002), DressingSomali:The Effects of Tradeand Nationalismon SomaliDress,1800-1960, African StudiesAssociation(juried,heldBoston) (2002), FashioninWestAfrica:Connectionsbetween Hand-madeand Factory-madeCloth, The Cultured Body:AfricanFashionand Body Arts (juried,symposiumat the Universityof Iowa) (2002), TheAestheticsof Wrappers:TransformingAfricanDressforAfrican-AmericanConsumers, CostumeSocietyof America(juried,heldinChicago)

  7. Teaching Publications (2019), AfricanDress (2019)'Aesthetics' (2019) 'ReligiousDress Lessonplans for the BergFashionLibrary,BloomsburyAcademic Individualizedlearning Note:TheEskenaziSchool does not haveanyPhDstudents LilianaRocha(2021-present),advisorfor MA inCuratorship LillianaRocha (2019), MFA student inFibers,independentstudycourseon the aestheticsand politics of textilesinColumbia George(Te)Silva (2018), advisorforIndividualizedMajor Program(undergraduate), politicsof fashionand the body,nominatedforan outstandingthesisaward LoriFrye(2017), thesiscommitteememberfor MSinApparelMerchandising Defininga PresidentialLook: An Analysisof HillaryRodham Clinton s PresidentialCampaignDress RachelRose(2017), advisorforMS inApparelMerchandising SeniorCords:AnIndianaApparelPhenomenon MollyKeogh(2017), advisorforMA inAfricanStudies WhoHweWoNua/You SeeYour Sibling:LocatingBatikWithinGhana sTextilePractices KristenOtto(2017), PhD student inAnthropology,independentstudy courseon Africantextiles, dress,and museumcollections NatashaHeines(2014), MFA studentinFiberArts,committeememberfororaldefense NatashaHeinesand Goerge(Te)Silva(2014), independentstudycourseon subcultures and postmodernfashion CatherineBishop(2011), thesiscommitteememberfor MA inAnthropology AfricanOccasionalCloths PetraSlinkard(2008), advisorfor MSinApparelMerchandising DreadlocksinBabylon:Techniquesand Motivationsfor WearingDreadlockedHairinSouthern Indiana

  8. Directedlearning(continued) SoniaAkhras-Rasad(2007), advisorforMS inApparelMerchandising A ComparisonbetweenBatikand otherResist-dyedTextiles MaryEmbry(2006), advisorforMS inApparelMerchandising FairTradeand Service-learning:The Caseof a SymbioticRelationshipUsed to Institute a SIFE Program JessicaRall (2006), advisorfor MSinApparelMerchandising BodyExposureinFashionandTheaterof the 1960s Guestteaching WorkshopforIU IndiaGateway(2021) PoliticsBehindT-Shirts(2.5 hours onlinefor 40+ highschoolstudents throughoutIndia) PACE-C100:Introductionto Theoriesof Leadership(2019, 2020) ComparingUSmilitaryuniformsfrom WorldWarII and Vietnam EDUC-E300:ElementaryEducationfora PluralisticSociety(2018) Useof dress/fashioninclassroomteachingusingthe SageCollection HON-H236:UseofForce(2018) Militaryuniformsinthe SageCollection COLL-S103:Arts of War(2018, 2019, 2020) Militaryuniformsinthe SageCollection GNDR-G310:Representation& TheBody(2018) History,aesthetics,and politicsof the burqini(Islamicswimsuits) SOAD-A100:Introductionto Art,Design+ Merchandising(2017, 2018) Rangeof myteachingand researchinfashiondesign;myprofessionalpathway SOAD-D277:Materialsand Componentsof InteriorDesign(2017) Construction,identification,and uses of textilesinhomefurnishings AMID-R100:Introductionto RetailDesign& Merchandising(2014, 2015, 2016) Examples frommyresearchon Africanand Islamicfashion AMID-R404:InternationalTradeinTextilesand Apparel (2011) Introductionto globaltradein/fromAfrica AMID-R100: Introduction to Apparel and Textiles (2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2011) Examples frommyresearchon Africanand Islamicfashion

  9. Service MediaInterviews ElPa s (Spain,2020) https://smoda.elpais.com/moda/harry-styles-senior-cords-universidad-indiana-bode/ TV3(Spain,2020) https://www.ccma.cat/tv3/alacarta/telenoticies/per-que-molts-nord-americans-no-es-volen-posar- la-mascara-per-prevenir-la-covid/video/6050368/ Belahdan(US,2020) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkAK7DcIMAg Vox(US,2020) https://www.vox.com/2020/5/29/21273625/coronavirus-masks-required-virginia-china-hong-kong WTIUJourneyIndiana(US,2019) https://indianapublicmedia.org/journeyindiana/episode-109.php TheAtlantic(US,2016) http://www.theatlantic.com/entertainment/archive/2016/08/burqini-history/495524/ Folha deS o Paulo(Brazil,2016) http://www1.folha.uol.com.br/mundo/2016/08/1804675-veto-ao-uso-do-burquini-nas-praias- chega-a-12-cidades-da-franca.shtml Belahdan(US,2016) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDGmtMLvaRY The AttitudewithArnieArnesen(US,2016) BurqinibansinFrance Belahdan(US,2011) ThePoliticsof DressinSomaliCulture MuslimVoices(US,2008) TheVeil (https://muse.jhu.edu/book/57414) Professional service Editorialboard for Dress: Journalof theCostumeSocietyof America(US,2021-2025) BloomsburyFashionCentraladvisoryboard(UK,2019-present) Grantproposalreviewer,AustrianScienceFoundation(Austria,2019) Boardof Directors,CostumeSocietyof America(US,2012-16)

  10. Professional service(continued) Journalmanuscriptreviewer: AfricanStudiesReview(US): 2012, 2017 BritishJournalof MiddleEastern Studies(UK):2017, 2018 ContemporaryIslam(Netherlands):2014 CriticalStudiesin Fashion& Beauty(UK):2020 TheDesignJournal(UK):2017, 2018, 2021 Dress (US):2011, 2017 EnglishLanguageNotes(US):2021 FashionTheory(US): 2019 InternationalJournalof FashionDesign, Technologyand Education(UK):2014 Journalof ConsumerSciences(South Africa):2017 JournalofFolkloreResearch(US):2018 Journalof MiddleEastern Women sStudies(US): 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019 Religions(Switzerland):2019, 2021 TextileHistory(UK):2016 Women sStudiesInternationalForum (UK):2016, 2018 AfricaToday(US):2011 Textile:Journalof ClothandCulture(UK): 2008 WesternJournalof BlackStudies(US): 2011 Bookproposalandmanuscriptreviewer: Berg/ Bloomsbury(2015, 2016, 2017, 2019, 2020) IndianaUniversityPress(2014, 2015, 2016, 2017) OklahomaUniversityPress(2021) Externalreviewsforpromotion: DominicanUniversity,FashionMerchandisingand Design(2021) BrooklynCollege,Art History(2021) ArizonaStateUniversity,FashionDesign(2020) Universityof Wisconsin,InteriorDesign(2014) Servicepublications (2010) Colonialism to Independence (Africa), Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, volume 1, eds.JoanneB. Eicherand DoranRoss,Oxford: BergPublishers,pp. 44-50. (2008), Body Adornment and Clothing: Trade, New Encyclopedia of Africa, eds. John Middleton and JosephC. Miller, NewYork: CharlesScribner sSons,pp.251-253.

  11. Servicepublications(continued) (2004), Islamic Dress, Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion, ed. Valerie Steele, New York: Charles Scribner sSons, pp. 250-254. (2004), Jilbab, Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion, ed. Valerie Steele, New York: Charles Scribner s Sons,pp. 288-290. (2004), Plain Weave, Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion, ed. Valerie Steele, New York: Charles Scribner sSons, pp. 416-417. (2004), Twill Weave, Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion, ed. Valerie Steele, New York: Charles Scribner sSons, pp. 419-421. (2004), Satin Weave, Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion, ed. Valerie Steele, New York: Charles Scribner sSons, pp. 417-419. (2004), Jacquard Weave, Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion, ed. Valerie Steele, New York: Charles Scribner sSons,p. 415. Publishedbookreviews: LongLivethePresident! PortraitClothsfrom Africa(AfricaToday,2011) TheEssential Art ofAfrican Textiles (AfricanStudiesReview,2009) Bogolan:ShapingCultureThrough Clothin ContemporaryMali,2nd ed. (AfricanStudiesReview,2009) Modein Afrika(AfricanArts,2009) Clothin WestAfricanHistory(Technology&Culture,2007) Clothingas MaterialCulture(Technology& Culture,2007) Campusservice FacultysponsorforMuslimWomenof IU (invited,2021-present) MuslimVoicesadvisoryboard member(invited,2019-present) Institutefor AdvancedStudy advisoryboardmember(invited,2019-present) BloomingtonFacultyCouncil(electedrepresentative,2018-20) FacultyMediationCommittee,BFC (elected,2018-20) Long-RangePlanningCommittee,BFC (invited,2017-20) College[of Arts+ Sciences]PolicyCommittee(elected, 2017-20;electedchair,2019-20) FacultyAdvisoryBoard,MathersMuseumof WorldCultures(invited, 2013-17) Chairof UndergraduateAffairs,AfricanStudies Program(invited,2011-13, 2019-20) Mentorfor BettyDlamini,seniorlecturerinAfricanStudies(2018-20) Mentorfor JacindaTownsend,assistantprofessorinEnglish(2011-13) FacultyAdvisoryBoard,Officeof Women sAffairs(2010-2012)

  12. Schoolservice(Eskenazi School,2016-present) ScienceFest committee(2018-2020) Curricularcommitteeon intellectual property(2018) SearchcommitteeinFashionDesign,chair(2018-19) SearchcommitteeinFashionDesign,member(2017-18) FacultyAdvisoryBoard(2016-17) Department service(AMID, 2004-2016) CentralPlanningCommitteeforthe EskenaziSchool (2014-16) Departmentexecutivecommittee(2011-2014) Promotionandtenurecommittee(2011-2014) Searchand screencommittee,chair(2010-12, 2013-14) Undergraduate Teaching Intern policy committee (2007-08) Scholarshipcommittee(2005-07) AdvisorforKappaOmicronNu honorsociety(2004-07) Publicservice Electedmemberof the Boardof Trusteesforthe IslamicCenterof Bloomington(2013-2022) Chairof the Boardof Trusteesat ICOB(2016-2021) Dress and BodyAssociation In 2020, I co-foundedthe DBA and nowserveas co-director. As a registered501(c)(3) organization that fosters interdisciplinaryscholarshipon dress and the body,it operatesentirelyonline. Ourfirst annualconferenceinNovember2020 featured26 speakersfrom15 countries. Fromourmissionstatement: Dress is a highlyinclusiveconcept that includesallvarietiesof body supplementsand body modificationsfound inhumanculturesaround the world.It isnot limitedto clothing,costume,or fashionor to anyparticulartime,place, oreconomicstructure.The missionof the DBAis to bring togetherscholarsfromdiversedisciplinesand areasof the worldto shareacademicresearchabout dressand body practices,to offer qualityopportunitiesfornetworking,and to forgelinks withlike- mindedindividualsand organizations.

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