Herbal Extracts in Cosmetics: Benefits and Applications
Explore the use of herbal extracts like Horse Chestnut, Licorice, and Linden in cosmetic products for skincare. Learn about their anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and hydrating properties, making them ideal for treating various skin conditions and enhancing skin health.
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PHYTOCOSMETICS PHAR 535 Dr. ESRA TARIQ Dr. ESRA TARIQ Herbal Extracts in Cosmetic Use Herbal Extracts in Cosmetic Use- -III III Semester-1 Week number: 9 Date : 13/12/2023
Outline Herbals in skin care
Horse Chestnut Scientific name: Aesculus hippocastanum L. Family: Sapindaceae Parts used: Seeds, leaves The antiedema and tonifying effects of the plant and its stimulation of peripheral circulation can also be obtained through topical application of creams or gels based on escin. These products can be used in the treatment of acne, couperose, and Reddened or irritated skin.
The reduction of capillary permeability and the improvement of vein tone and lymphatic drainage can also be very useful in anticellulite treatments. Escin has also been used in products for the hygiene of the oral cavity, where it exerts a useful action on gingival bleeding. In products for the scalp, the plant has refreshing, anti-inflammatory, and soothing effects, while in suntan and after-sun products it acts as a soothing remedy and a sunscreen, mainly due to the presence of proanthocyanidins. It has been shown in an in vitro study that escin can generate contraction forces in fibroblasts due to the formation of actin stress fibers, through the activation of the Rho/Rho kinase system.
Licorice Scientific name: Glycyrrhiza glabra L. Family: Leguminosae Parts used: Roots, stolons The anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties of the plant can find application in the treatment of skin diseases and mouth infections. The cortisol-like action is useful against contact dermatitis, eczema, and psoriasis. Plant extracts have also a preventive effect against burn infections, and are used in cosmetics as antioxidants, refreshing agents, and to soothe irritations.
Herbal Skin Care Products Plant extracts are also included in antibaldness and depigmenting preparations. As for the actions of specific compounds, 18 -glycyrrhetic acid is useful against acne, while glycyrrhizin prevents follicular damage caused by free radicals released by leukocytes in acne and rosacea
Linden Scientific name: Tilia cordata Mill. Family: Tiliaceae Parts used: Inflorescences The cosmetic relevance of the flowers is mostly due to the presence of mucilage, which exerts hydrating and anti- inflammatory actions on the skin. Mucilage consists of heteropolysaccharides that absorb large amounts of water due to the high presence of hydroxyl groups. These hydrocolloids can be applied as a film to the skin, thereby releasing water to the keratinized layer and protecting the skin tissue from dehydration.
Linden extracts are used in skin care as components of creams, detergent milk, and hydrating, emollient, and antiredness masks suitable for dry and delicate skins. They can also be combined with detergents in order to prevent the irritating effect of foam.
Herbal Skin Care Products Malabar Tamarind Scientific name: Garcinia cambogia (Gaertn.) Desr. (syn. Garcinia gummi-gutta (L.) N. Robson) Family: Guttiferae Parts used: Fruit The fruit extract, rich in citric and hydroxycitric acids, is used in the preparation of cosmetics for skin hydration
NEEM Scientific name: Azadirachta indica A. Juss. Family: Meliaceae Parts used: Seeds, leaves, flowers, bark The bark and leaves, as well as the refined oil, are employed in a wide range of herbal cosmetics, including creams, lotions, soaps, and shampoo.
NEEM The oil has hydrating and antimicrobial properties and, as said above, can also act as an insect repellent. The oil is also used in dermatologic products for acne and other skin infections. The leaf extract is active against skin mycoses, eczema, and scabies. Nimbidin is used in skin-lightening products
Pomegranate Scientific name: Punica granatum L. Family: Lythraceae Parts used: Bark, leaves, fruit, seeds Various cosmetic products contain fruit extracts or seed oil.27 The fruit is used as an antioxidant due to the abundant polyphenolic fraction. The oil is used as a skin hydrating, antiwrinkle, and softener product
The water extract of the fruit peel inhibits the expression of metalloproteinase 1 and induces the production of collagen type I in dermal fibroblasts, while it does not seem to exert relevant effects on keratinocytes. Conversely, the oil stimulates keratinocyte proliferation but has a scarce effect on fibroblasts Ellagic acid shows depigmenting properties that can be useful in the treatment of hyperpigmentations
Soybean Scientific name: Glycine max (L.) Merr. Family: Leguminosae Parts used: Seeds Has protective effects on the skin against photocarcinogenesis and photoaging. Has antiphotoaging, anti-inflammatory, immunoprotective, and anticarcinogenic properties against the effects of sun radiation in laboratory animals, suggesting its use in sun products for skin care
Witch Hazel Scientific name: Hamamelis virginiana L. Family: Hamamelidaceae Parts used: Bark, leaves The plant extracts find therapeutic applications in various skin disorders and are used in a number of cosmetic formulations. It is particularly indicated for the treatment of eczemas, ulcers, wounds, burns, couperose, and atopic dermatitis, and is also useful for the treatment of greasy skin, especially on the face.
References Peter Elsner, (2000). Cosmeceuticals , Drugs vs Cosmetics, Marcel Dekker, Inc. New York Basel TM Bruno Burlando, Luisella Verotta, Laura Cornara, Elisa Bottini-Massa, Herbal Principles in Cosmetics: Properties and Mechanisms of Action, 2010, CRC Press.
