Chemical Hair Relaxers: Thio vs. Hydroxide
Chemical Texture Services
Part 2
Chemical Hair Relaxers
- the process of rearranging
the basic structure of
extremely curly hair into a
straight form
Chemical Hair Relaxing
Extremely curly hair
-
grows in long, twisted spirals or coils
-
cross-sections are highly elliptical
-
vary in shape and thickness along their
lengths
The two most common
types of
chemical hair relaxers
are
thio (ATG)
&
hydroxide
Thio Relaxers
Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG)
Same reducing agent used in Permanent
Waving but…
•
Usually has a pH above
10
•
Higher concentration of ATG
•
thicker
, with a higher viscosity
•
break disulfide bonds and soften
hair
The neutralizer used with
thio relaxers
is an
oxidizing agent
usually
hydrogen peroxide.
Hydroxide Relaxers
Hydroxide Ions
•
active ingredient in all hydroxide
relaxer
•
very strong alkalis
•
swell the hair up to
twice
its normal
diameter
•
average pH of hydroxide relaxers is
over
13.0
Lanthionization
:
process where hydroxide relaxers remove
one atom of sulfur
from a
disulfide bond
converting it to a
lanthionine bond
Neutralization
•
does not involve oxidation
•
neutralizes the alkaline residues left
in the hair by the relaxer
•
must apply an
acid-balanced
shampoo
or a
normalizing lotion
•
lowers the pH of the hair & scalp
Types
of
Hydroxide Relaxers
Metal Hydroxide Relaxers
A.
One solution – No mixing
B.
ionic compounds formed by a metal
(sodium (Na), potassium (K), & lithium
(Li))
which is combined with
1) oxygen (O)
2) hydrogen (H)
Metal Hydroxide Relaxers
A.
Sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
a)
most common
b)
Aka - Lye Relaxers
B.
Potassium hydroxide (KOH)
a)
Aka – No-Lye Relaxers
C.
Lithium hydroxide (LiOH)
1)
Aka - No-lye relaxer
Guanidine Hydroxide Relaxers
•
advertised and sold as “no lye”
relaxers
•
contain two components that
must be mixed immediately
prior to use
Low-pH Relaxers
•
sulfites and bisulfites are sometimes
used
•
the most commonly used are ammonium
sulfite and ammonium bisulfate
Hydroxide Relaxers
Base and No-Base Relaxers
2.)No-base formula
base cream
AKA
protective base cream
applied to the hairline during hair
relaxing
1.)Base Relaxer
•
base cream
AKA
protective base cream
applied to the skin and scalp during hair
relaxing
Base Relaxers
•
require the application of a
protective base cream
to the entire
scalp prior to the application of the
relaxer
No-Base Relaxers
•
does not require the application
of a protective base cream
•
contains a protective base cream
designed to melt at body
temperature
Relaxer strengths
•
Determined by the concentration of
hydroxide ions
•
Most chemical hair relaxers are available
in three strengths:
•
Mild
•
Regular
•
Super
Thermal Ionic Reconstructors
•
first manufactured and marketed in
Asia
•
consist of a thio relaxer with a
double hot blow-dry and a double
hot press with flat irons
Soft Curl Permanents
(Curl Re-forming)
-
AKA Jheri curl or simply a curl
- do not
STRAIGHTEN
the hair
- they make the existing curl
larger
and
looser
- actually
two
services
Soft Curl Permanent Procedure
1.
hair must be relaxed with a thio
relaxer
2.
Wrap hair on proper tools
3.
process with a second thio
solution
4.
Always follow manufacturer’s
directions
Keratin Based
Straightening
Treatments
Keratin Based Straightening
Treatments
•
AKA Brazillian keratin treatments
Hydroxide
Relaxer
Procedures
Hydroxide Relaxer Procedures
•
Virgin relaxer application
–
used for hair that has not had previous
chemical texture services
•
Retouch relaxer application
–
used for hair that has had previous
chemical texture services
Hydroxide Relaxer Procedures
•
Normalizing Lotions
–
used after rinsing out the relaxer and prior
to shampooing
–
conditioners with an acidic pH
–
condition the hair and restore the natural
pH prior to shampooing
Strand Tests
•
Done during processing
•
helps determine when the hair is
sufficiently relaxed
•
AKA Thumb print
–
If the hair pops up/follows your finger
it is NOT finished processing
Thio
Relaxer
Procedures
Thio Relaxer Procedures
•
application steps for thio relaxers
are the
same
as those for hydroxide
relaxer
•
the neutralization procedure is
different
Safety Precautions for Hair Relaxing
1)
Perform a thorough
hair analysis
and client
consultation prior to the service
2)
Examine the scalp for
abrasions
& do not
proceed if redness, swelling, or skin lesions
are present
3)
Keep accurate and detailed client records
of the
services performed
and the
results
4)
Have the client sign a
release statement
that
indicated that the client understands the
possible risks involved
5)
Do not apply a hydroxide relaxer on hair that
has been previously treated with a
thio relaxer
6)
Do not apply a thio relaxer on hair that has
been previously treated with a hydroxide
relaxer
7)
Do not chemically relax hair that has been
treated with a
metallic
dye
8)
application of a hydroxide relaxer
9)
Do not relax overly damaged hair
10)
Do not shampoo the client prior to the The
client’s hair and scalp must be completely
dry and free from perspiration prior to the
application of a hydroxide relaxer
11)
Apply a
protective base cream
to avoid
scalp irritation
12)
Wear gloves during the relaxer application
13)
Protect the client’s eyes
14)
If any solution accidentally gets into the client’s
eye, flush the eye immediately with cool water
and refer the client to a doctor
15)
Do not allow chemical relaxers to accidentally
come into contact with the client’s ears, scalp,
or skin
16)
Perform periodic
strand tests
to see how fast
the natural curls are being removed
Avoid scratching the scalp with your comb or nails
17)
Do not allow the application of a relaxer
retouch to overlap onto
previously
relaxed hair
18)
Never use a strong relaxer on fine or
damaged hair, it may cause
breakage
19)
Do not attempt to remove more than
80%
of the natural curl
20)
Thoroughly rinse the chemical relaxer
from the hair
21)
Use a
normalizing lotion
to restore the
hair and scalp to their normal acidic pH
22)
Use a neutralizing shampoo with a
color
indicator
to guarantee that the hair/scalp
have been restored to their normal acidic
pH
23)
Use a conditioner and wide-tooth comb
to eliminate excessive stretching when
combing out tangles
24)
Do not use
hot irons
or
excessive heat
on
chemically relaxed hair
Chemical hair relaxers like Thio and Hydroxide are common methods for straightening extremely curly hair. Thio relaxers use Ammonium Thioglycolate to break disulfide bonds, while Hydroxide relaxers contain strong alkalis that swell hair fibers. The process involves lanthionization and neutralization to maintain hair health post-treatment.
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Presentation Transcript
Chemical Texture Services Part 2 Chemical Hair Relaxers
Chemical Hair Relaxing - the process of rearranging the basic structure of extremely curly hair into a straight form
Extremely curly hair - grows in long, twisted spirals or coils - cross-sections are highly elliptical - vary in shape and thickness along their lengths
The two most common types of chemical hair relaxers are thio (ATG) & hydroxide
Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG) Same reducing agent used in Permanent Waving but Usually has a pH above 10 Higher concentration of ATG thicker, with a higher viscosity break disulfide bonds and soften hair
The neutralizer used with thio relaxers is an oxidizing agent usually hydrogen peroxide.
Hydroxide Ions active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxer very strong alkalis swell the hair up to twice its normal diameter average pH of hydroxide relaxers is over 13.0
Lanthionization: process where hydroxide relaxers remove one atom of sulfur from a disulfide bond converting it to a lanthionine bond
Neutralization does not involve oxidation neutralizes the alkaline residues left in the hair by the relaxer must apply an acid-balanced shampoo or a normalizing lotion lowers the pH of the hair & scalp
Types of Hydroxide Relaxers
Metal Hydroxide Relaxers A. One solution No mixing B. ionic compounds formed by a metal (sodium (Na), potassium (K), & lithium (Li)) which is combined with 1) oxygen (O) 2) hydrogen (H)
Metal Hydroxide Relaxers A. Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) a) most common b) Aka - Lye Relaxers B. Potassium hydroxide (KOH) a) Aka No-Lye Relaxers C. Lithium hydroxide (LiOH) 1) Aka - No-lye relaxer
Guanidine Hydroxide Relaxers advertised and sold as no lye relaxers contain two components that must be mixed immediately prior to use
Low-pH Relaxers sulfites and bisulfites are sometimes used the most commonly used are ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfate
Hydroxide Relaxers Base and No-Base Relaxers 1.)Base Relaxer base cream AKA protective base cream applied to the skin and scalp during hair relaxing 2.)No-base formula base cream AKA protective base cream applied to the hairline during hair relaxing
Base Relaxers require the application of a protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer
No-Base Relaxers does not require the application of a protective base cream contains a protective base cream designed to melt at body temperature
Relaxer strengths Determined by the concentration of hydroxide ions Most chemical hair relaxers are available in three strengths: Mild Regular Super
Thermal Ionic Reconstructors first manufactured and marketed in Asia consist of a thio relaxer with a double hot blow-dry and a double hot press with flat irons
Soft Curl Permanents (Curl Re-forming) - do not STRAIGHTEN the hair - they make the existing curl larger and looser - AKA Jheri curl or simply a curl - actually two services
Soft Curl Permanent Procedure 1. hair must be relaxed with a thio relaxer 2. Wrap hair on proper tools 3. process with a second thio solution 4. Always follow manufacturer s directions
Keratin Based Straightening Treatments
Keratin Based Straightening Treatments AKA Brazillian keratin treatments
Hydroxide Relaxer Procedures
Hydroxide Relaxer Procedures Virgin relaxer application used for hair that has not had previous chemical texture services Retouch relaxer application used for hair that has had previous chemical texture services
Hydroxide Relaxer Procedures Normalizing Lotions used after rinsing out the relaxer and prior to shampooing conditioners with an acidic pH condition the hair and restore the natural pH prior to shampooing
Strand Tests Done during processing helps determine when the hair is sufficiently relaxed AKA Thumb print If the hair pops up/follows your finger it is NOT finished processing
Thio Relaxer Procedures
Thio Relaxer Procedures application steps for thio relaxers are the same as those for hydroxide relaxer the neutralization procedure is different
Safety Precautions for Hair Relaxing 1)Perform a thorough hair analysis and client consultation prior to the service 2)Examine the scalp for abrasions & do not proceed if redness, swelling, or skin lesions are present 3)Keep accurate and detailed client records of the services performed and the results
4)Have the client sign a release statement that indicated that the client understands the possible risks involved 5)Do not apply a hydroxide relaxer on hair that has been previously treated with a thio relaxer 6)Do not apply a thio relaxer on hair that has been previously treated with a hydroxide relaxer 7)Do not chemically relax hair that has been treated with a metallic dye
8)application of a hydroxide relaxer 9)Do not relax overly damaged hair 10)Do not shampoo the client prior to the The client s hair and scalp must be completely dry and free from perspiration prior to the application of a hydroxide relaxer 11)Apply a protective base cream to avoid scalp irritation 12)Wear gloves during the relaxer application
13)Protect the clients eyes 14)If any solution accidentally gets into the client s eye, flush the eye immediately with cool water and refer the client to a doctor 15)Do not allow chemical relaxers to accidentally come into contact with the client s ears, scalp, or skin 16)Perform periodic strand tests to see how fast the natural curls are being removed Avoid scratching the scalp with your comb or nails
17)Do not allow the application of a relaxer retouch to overlap onto previously relaxed hair 18)Never use a strong relaxer on fine or damaged hair, it may cause breakage 19)Do not attempt to remove more than 80% of the natural curl 20)Thoroughly rinse the chemical relaxer from the hair
21)Use a normalizing lotion to restore the hair and scalp to their normal acidic pH 22)Use a neutralizing shampoo with a color indicator to guarantee that the hair/scalp have been restored to their normal acidic pH 23)Use a conditioner and wide-tooth comb to eliminate excessive stretching when combing out tangles 24)Do not use hot irons or excessive heat on chemically relaxed hair
