Understanding Hair Design, Bone Structure, and Face Shape for Flattering Hairstyles

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Learn how bone structure and face shape influence hairstyling decisions, with detailed information on measuring different facial features and identifying 7 common face shapes. Discover tips and considerations for creating hairstyles that complement specific face shapes like round, square, oval, triangle, inverted triangle, diamond, and oblong.

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HAIR DESIGN BONE STRUCTURE AND FACE SHAPE

If the wrong hairstyle is created for the wrong face shape, the result is a disaster.

BONE STRUCTURE HEAD EYES NOSE EARS MOUTH CHIN Head: The distance from the chin to the crown is the same as that from the back of the head to the front hairline. The mid-point of the face, when measured from chin to crown, is at the base of the eye sockets. Eyes: The space between the eyes is about the same width as one eye. If the width of the eye is used as a unit of measurement, the head is five eyes wide and seven eyes long. A measurement from pupil to pupil of each eye will be equal to the measurement from the bridge of the nose to its tip. Nose: the bottom of the nose is the mid-point between the eyes and the chin. Ears: Top of the ears align with the bridge of the nose and the outer tips of the eyebrows, and the bottom of the ears with the tip of the nose, so the length of the ears is equal to the length of the nose. Mouth: corners of the mouth align with the centre of the eyes (when not smiling). The line where the two lips meet is slightly above the halfway point between the end of the nose and the chin. The mouth will always be a quarter of the way up the total measurement of the face from the chin. Chin: outer edges of the mound of the chin align with the inner corners of the eyes.

lateral view of skull

MEASUREMENTS Measure your face across the top of your cheekbones. Write down the measurement on a piece of paper. Measure across your jaw line from the widest point to the widest point. Write down the measurement. Measure across your forehead at the widest point. Generally the widest point will be somewhere about halfway between your eyebrows and your hairline. Write down the measurement. Measure from the tip of your hairline to the bottom of your chin.

7 FACE SHAPES Round Square Oval Triangle Inverted triangle Diamond Oblong

ROUND Round face: Full-looking face with a round chin and hairline. Widest point is at the cheeks and ears. Try----Styles with fullness and height at the crown. Off center parts help reduce the roundness. Short hair styles with a swept- back direction or hair styles that are longer than chin length. By layering the top to achieve fullness and keeping the rest of the cut relatively close to the face, your round face shape will appear longer and narrower. Avoid----Chin length with round line. Center parts tend to accentuate roundness. Style----A round haircut ending at the chin will certainly add weight to your already round face shape.

SQUARE Square: usually an equally square hairline. Try----Short to medium length hair. Off-center parts with height at the crown look great. Layers and wispy looks around the face. Height at the crown it will elongate symmetrical shape. If hair is straight , a body wave would create softness and a nice balance to the straight features of face shape. Avoid----Long straight styles that accentuate the square jawbone. Straight bangs or center parts aren t the best choice. A straight bob ending at the jaw line is the wrong thing to do for your face shape. Layered bob can be worn, however it should end above or below the jaw line, not at the jaw. A strong, square jaw line and Styling----When styling achieve some roundness to the shape and some height at the crown or bangs.

oval Oval: shape. Have you noticed how many different hair styles they can wear? They can wear short, medium and long hair styles. Oval face shape is well balanced , or in even proportion. Best look when styling hair off the face. An oval face is considered the perfect Avoid-----Hair styles that cover up the perfect features with heavy bangs, or too forward- directed styles. Wearing the hair style on the face, face shape will get lost behind the hair. This may appear to add weight to the face. Style-----Off the face.

TRIANGLE Triangle: reverse heart shape. A dominant jaw line with narrowing at the cheek bone and temples. Try----Shorter hair that balances prominent jaw line. Full at the temples and taper at the jaw are perfect for triangular shapes. Off center parts, wedges and shags look great. Lots of layers to achieve fullness through the upper part of the face. Avoid----Fullness by cheek area and jaw line. Hair styles that flip out at the jaw line not recommended. A reverse inverted triangle or Style---- Create fullness on sides above ears and top of the head.

INVERTED TRIANGLE OR HEART SHAPE Inverted triangle or heart shape: Face is wide at the temples and hairline, narrowing to a small chin. Try-----Chin-length or longer. Fullness below chin. Side parted hair or swept-forward layers around the upper face, with wispy bangs. Chin-length bob is great. Can wear short hair styles, but you need to leave weight in the back nape area. Avoid Short, full styles that emphasize the upper face. Styles with too much height at the crown. Style---Fullness below chin

DIAMOND DIAMOND: CHEEKS AND NARROW CHIN NARROW FOREHEAD, WIDTH BY TRY------STRAIGHT ACROSS BANGS AND SIDE PARTS IT SHORTENS THE FACE. ONE LENGTH BOB SHOULDER WHISPY KICKED OUT LOOK. AVOID----SHORT HAIRSTYLES WITH HIGH ON TOP PARTICULARLY ONES WITHOUT BANGS. STLYES THAT LEAVE NO HAIR ON THE NECK AREA OR THE CHIN AREA. STLYLE----TUCKED BEHIND THE EARS WORK WELL TO SHOW OF CHEEK BONE STRUCTURE

OBLONG Oblong: Long and slender, same width at forehead and just below cheekbones. Try----Short to medium lengths. Fullness at the sides of face and wispy bangs soften the look of longer face shapes. Layers work well, they will add softness to the straight lines in oblong face shape. Avoid-Too much hair length, it will make the face look even longer. Style---- Fullness at the sides

Correcting flows with make-up techniques

Cheek Bone To accent cheekbones, blend in three dots of liquid highlighter above the cheekbones. Dust a little brown contour powder below and then fill in with your favorite shade of blush.

Thin face HIGHLIGHTERS CAN DO WONDERS FOR YOUR FACE! IT CAN MAKE A THIN FACE LOOK WIDER, YOUR CHEEKBONES MORE PROMINENT AND YOUR EYES LOOK LARGER. CHOOSE ONE THAT IS TWO SHADES LIGHTER THAN YOUR SKIN TONE AND NEVER CHOOSE WHITE. A FOUNDATION THAT IS LIGHTER THAN THE ONE YOU USUALLY USE CAN DOUBLE AS A HIGHLIGHTER BUT REMEMBER TO APPLY SPARINGLY AND DOUBLE CHECK YOUR APPLICATION

Jowls HOLD YOUR HEAD UP. JOWLS ARE MOST NOTICEABLE WHEN YOU TILT YOUR HEAD DOWN. PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR MAKE UP. PRETTY LIPS AND SCULPTED CHEEKBONES WILL PULL THE ATTENTION UP!

Correcting a round face The only thing that is going to make a noticeable difference is a hair style. You can use make-up but you need to know exactly what you are doing or you will look as if you have applied smudges of color to your face and that is what people will see.

Dark Shadows Under Eyes TO COVER DARK SHADOWS UNDER THE EYES, USE AN UNDER EYE CONCEALER ONE SHADE LIGHTER THAN YOUR FOUNDATION. IT SHOULD NOT BE SO LIGHT HOWEVER THAT YOU APPEAR TO HAVE WHITE CIRCLES UNDER YOUR EYES. APPLY IT VERY GENTLY WITH A BRUSH UNTIL THE DARKNESS DISPEARS. MAKE SURE THAT THE CONCEALER IS NOT OVERLY OILY OR IT WILL SETTLE INTO ANY FINE LINES IN THE AREA.

MINIMIZING A LARGE NOSE SHADING THE NOSE IF DONE CORRECTLY, CAN MAKE A WIDE NOSE LOOK MORE NARROW. YOU CAN ALSO PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE CHEEKBONES. EMPHASIZE THEM TO DRAW ATTENTION AWAY FROM THE NOSE. SAME THING GOES FOR THE EYES. ADDING HEIGHT TO A HAIRSTYLE WILL ALSO TAKE THE ATTENTION AWAY FROM THE NOSE.

DOUBLE CHIN HAVE YOUR TRIED EVERYTHING TO GET RID OF THAT DOUBLE CHIN? TRY LITTLE CONTOURING. ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS APPLY A DARK SHADOW UNDER THE CENTER OF THE CHIN AND BLEND TOWARD THE THROAT. REMEMBER TO BLEND WELL. IT WON T TAKE THE DOUBLE CHIN AWAY BUT IT WILL MAKE IT LESS NOTICEABLE.

CONTOURING CONTOURING CAN CREATE SOME BEAUTIFUL PLANES IN YOUR FACE BUT SAVE IT FOR EVENING. DAY TIME, IT CAN SIMPLY MAKE YOU TOO MADE UP. KEEP IN MIND THAT LESS IS BEST ALWAYS. CONTOUR POWDER SHOULD BE A NEUTRAL COLOR WITH NO RED OR YELLOW OVERTONES. IT SHOULD BE A FEW SHADES DARKER THAN YOUR FOUNDATION. USING A DARKER FOUNDATION IS A GOOD IDEA AS IT CAN BE BLENDED FAR MORE EASILY THAN POWDER. BLENDING IS VERY, VERY IMPORTANT. PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE. THIS IS THE ONLY WAY YOU ARE GOING TO BECOME SKILLED AT THIS APPLICATION