Herbal Cosmetics in Cosmetic Science

 
HERBAL
 
COSMETICS
 
Prepared By- Ms. Jayshree S. Bhadane.
Designation- Assistant Professor.
Department – Pharmaceutics.
Course & Code - Cosmetic Science (BP809ET)
Class- Final Y.B.Pharm           Semester- VIII
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan
.
 
1
 
COSMETICS
 
According
 
to
 
D
 &
 
C
 
Act
 1940
 
 
Any
 
article
 
intended
 
to
 
be
rubbed,
 
poured,
 
sprinkled
 
or
 
sprayed
 
on
 or
 
introduced
 
to
 
or
applied to any part of human body for cleansing, beautifying,
promoting, attractiveness or altering the appearance and includes
any 
article
 
intended
 
for 
use
 
as
 
component
 
of
 cosmetics.
 
Included in 
this definition 
are products such 
as skin 
moisturizers,
perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail 
polishes, eye and facial makeup
preparations,
 
shampoos,
 permanent
 
waves,
 
hair
 
colours,
toothpastes, 
and deodorants, as 
well 
as 
any material intended for
use as
 a
 
component
 
of
 
a
 
cosmetic
 
product.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan
.
 
2
 
If
 
the
 
safety
 
of
 
a
 
cosme
t
ic
 
product
 
has
 
not
 
been
substantiated,
 
the
 
product's
 
label
 
must
 
read:
 
W
ARNIN
G
:
 
“Th
e
 
safety
 
of
 
this
 
p
r
oduct
 
has
 
n
ot
 
been
determined.“
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
3
 
INT
R
OD
U
CTION
 
can
 
be
 
harmful
 
Herbal
 
products
 
are
 
safe
 
because
 
they
 
are
 
natural
if
 
consumed 
improperly
 
or
 
in
 
excessive
 
amounts.
 
Cosmeceuticals
 
are
 
cosmetic
 
products
 
with
 
biologically
 
active
ingredients 
purporting to 
have 
medical 
or drug
like benefits. They
ingredient with 
medicinal properties that manifests 
beneficial 
topical
actions
 
and
 
provides
 
protection
 
against
 
degenerative
 
skin
 
conditions.
 
Cosmeceuticals
 improve
 
appearance
 by
 
delivering
 
nutrients
necessary
 
for
 
healthy
 
skin.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan
.
 
4
 
ADVANTAGES
 
OF
 
HERBAL
 
COSMETICS
 
They do
 
not
 
provoke
 
allergic
 
reaction
 
&
 
do
 
not
 
have
negative
 
side
 
effects.
 
They are
 
easily
 
incorporated
 
with
 
skin
 
and
 
hair.
 
With
 
small
 
quantity
 
they
 
are
 
very
 
effective
 
as
 compared
 
to
synthetic
 
cosmetics.
 
Easily
 
available
 
&
 
found in
 
large
 
variety
 
&
 
quantity.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
5
 
DISADVANTAGES
 
OF
 
HERBAL
COSMETICS
 
Herbal
 
drugs
 
have slower
 
effects
 
as
 
compare
 
to
 
Allopathic
 
dosage 
form.
 
Also
it
 
requires
 
long
 
term
 
therapy.
 
They
 
are
 difficult
 
to
 
hide
 
taste
 
and
 
odour.
 
Manufacturing
 
process
 
are
 
time consuming
 
and
 
complicated.
 
No pharmacopoeia
 
defines
 
any
 
specific
 
procedure
 
or ingredients
 
to
 
be 
used
in
 
any of herbal
 
cosmetics.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
6
 
CURRENT
 
CHALLENGES
 
IN
 
HERBAL
FORMULATIONS
 
Herbal
 
preparations
 
a
re
 
ob
ta
ined
 
by
 
subjecting
 
herbal
 
substances
 
to
 
tre
a
t
m
ents
 
such
 
as
 
extraction,
 
dist
i
ll
a
ti
o
n,
 
expression,
 
fractionation,
 
purification,
 
concentration
 
or
 
fermentation.
Herbal
 
pr
e
par
a
tions
 
i
n
cludes
 
powdered
 
subs
t
a
n
ce
s
,
 
ti
n
ctures,
 
e
x
tra
c
ts,
essential
 
oils,
 
expressed
 
juices
 
and
 
processed
 
exudates.
Ayurvedic
 
herbal
 
formulations-
Solid
 
dosage
 
forms-
 Gutika
 
and
 
Churna
Semisolid
 
 
Avaleha
 
and
 
Ghrita
Liquid
 
 
Asava,
 
Arishta,
 
Taila
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan
.
 
7
 
Gels,
 
H
e
rb
a
l
 
Other
 
herbal
 
formulations
 
includes
 
Tablets,
 
Capsules,
creams,
 lotions,
 
pastes,
 shampoos,
 
conditioners,
 
Herbal
 
Tea
 
etc.
 
Novel
 
formulations
 
like-
 
polymeric
 
nanoparticles,
 
nanocapsules,
 
liposomes,
phytoso
m
e
s
,
 
nanoe
m
uls
i
on
s,
 
transferoso
m
es,
 
m
ic
r
osphere
 
and
 
e
thoso
m
es
etc.
 
Global
 
market of
 herbal
 
industry
 
shares
 
about
 
US
 
$62 
billion
 
per
 
annum.
 
Herb drug production of India is about 
US 
$10 
billion per 
annum with
annual export of US 
$ 1.1 
billion while China is worth US $48 billion 
with
export
 
of 
US
 
$ 3.6 billion
 
per
 annum.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan
.
 
8
 
India
 
is
 
having
 
just
 
2%
 
global
 
herbal
 
market
 
share.
 
India
 
is
 
lagging
 
behind
 
because
 
of
 
these
 
major
 
factors-
 
Lack
 
of
 
scientific
 
validation
 
and
 
standardization.
 
Lack
 
of
 
Quality
 
and
 
regulatory
 
aspects.
 
Limited
 
evidence
 
based
 
studies
 
on
 
efficacy
 
and
 
safety.
 
Lack
 
of 
pharmacokinetic
 
studies
 
of
 
bioactive
 
molecules.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan
.
 
9
 
LACK
 
OF
 
SCIENTIFIC
 
VALIDATION
AND 
STANDARDIZATION
 
Standardisation:
 
The
 
process
 
of
 
evaluating
 
the
 
quality
 
and
 
purity
 
of
crude
 
drugs
 
by
 
means
 
of
 
various
 
parameters
 
like
 
morphological,
microscopical,
 
physical,
 
chemical
 
and biological
 
observations.
 
Ac
c
u
r
a
c
y
 
o
f
 
p
l
ant
 
id
e
n
t
if
i
c
a
tion,
 
evaluation,
 
and
 
isolation
 
o
f
 
a
c
ti
v
e
ingredients
 
is
 
key
 
challenge.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
10
 
plants
 
a
re
 
i
n
 
co
m
plex
 
fo
r
m
 
and
 
needs
 
s
p
e
c
ial
 
single
 
m
edici
n
al
 
p
lant
 
con
s
ist
 
of
 
hundreds
 
of
 
Active
 
ingredients
 
in
precautions,
 because
 
a
constituents.
 
Medicinal
 
plant
 
properties
 
are
 
influenced
 
by
 
the
 
time
 
of
 
collection,
 
area
 
of
plant
 
origin
 
and
 
environmental
 
conditions.
 
Hence
 
sci
e
n
t
ific
 
v
a
li
d
ation
 
and
 
techn
o
l
o
g
ical
 
st
and
a
rdi
z
ation
 
of
 
herb
a
l
medicines
 
is needed
 
for
 
the
 
future
 
advancement
 
of
 
herbal
 
formulation.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
11
 
LACK OF
 
QU
A
LITY
 
AND REG
U
L
A
T
O
R
Y
ASPECTS
 
Quality
 
c
o
nt
r
o
l
(
Q
C
)
 
o
f
 
herb
a
l
 
fo
r
m
ulations
 
i
s
 
req
u
ired
 
f
o
r
 
it
s
 
saf
e
ty
 
and
efficacy
 
.
 
Q
C
 
assu
r
es
 
qu
a
lity
 
p
roducts
 
t
h
at
 
reduce
 
t
h
e
 
risks
 
assoc
i
a
ted
 
w
i
th
 
h
e
rbal
medicine.
 
Regulation
 
and
 
legislation
 
of
 
herbal
 
medicines
 
has
 
been
 
enacted
 
in
 
very
 
few
countries.
 
Most
 
countries
 
do
 
not
 
have
 
any
 
proper
 
regulation
 
of
 
botanicals
 
and
 
quality
 
of
herbal
 
products
 
sold
 
is
 
generally
 
not
 
guaranteed.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
12
 
European
 
coun
t
rie
s
-
 
re
g
ula
t
ed
 
by
 
the
 
European
Directive
 
on
 
Traditional
 
Herbal
 
medicinal
 
products.
 
UK-
 
MHRA
 
(Medicines
 
and
 
Healthcare
 
products
Regulatory
 
agency).
 
India-
 
AYUSH
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan
.
 
13
 
QUALITY
 
EVALUATION
 
OF
 
HERBAL
 
DRUGS
 
Macroscopic
 
Microscopic
 
1.
Qualitative
2.
Quantitative
3.
SEM
 
studies
4.
Powder
 
studies
 
1.
Shape
2.
Exte
r
nal
1.
Colour
2.
Odour
3.
Taste
4.
Texture
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
14
 
LACK OF 
PHARMACOKINETIC
STUDIES
 
OF
 
BIOACTIVE
 MOLECULES
 
E
f
f
icacy
 
o
f
 
drug
 
de
p
e
nds
 
upo
n
 
it
s
 
co
m
posit
i
on
 
as
 
h
erbal
 
p
rodu
c
ts
 
have
complex
 
composition.
 
In
 
vitro
 
assays
 
are
 
cheap
 
and
 
easy,
 
but
 
in
 
herbal
 
preparations
 
sufficient
concentration
 
of active
 
constituents
 
at
 
the
 
site
 
of action
 
is
 
difficult.
 
Herbal
 
for
m
ula
t
ions
 
b
e
c
ause
 
of
 
wh
i
ch
 
lack
 
d
a
ta
 
on
 
t
h
e
ir
 
d
ispo
si
t
ion,
 
a
nd
biological
 
fate
 
in
 
humans.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan
.
 
15
 
Pharmacokinetics
 
are
 
vital
 
Dr
u
g
 
d
e
v
e
lopment
 
pr
o
c
e
ss
 
of
 
u
n
d
e
rsta
n
di
n
g
 
ADME.
 
To
 
know
 
herbal-drug
 
interaction.
 
Elucidation of metabolic pathways which yields
potentially
 
new
 
active
 
compounds
 
and
 
assessment
 
of
elimination
 
route
 
and
 
their
 
kinetics.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
16
 
INITIATIVES
 
TAKEN
 
SO
 
FAR
 
……
 
In
 
2000
 
GMP
 
came
 
for
 
Ayurvedic,
 
Siddha
 
and
 
Unani.
 
Monographs
 on
 
herbs
 
and
 
herbal
 products
 got
 
included
 
in
 
Indian
Pharmacopeia
 
(IP)
 
-
 
59
 
monographs
 
in
 
2007
 
IP
 
-
 
89
 
monographs
 
in
2010
 
IP
 
In
 2005,
 
Ayurvedic
 
Pharmacopeia
 of
 
India
 
included
 
258  
different
drugs
 
and
 
the
 
Indian
 
Herbal
 
pharmacopeia
 
included
 
52
 
monographs.
 
About 
USD 158 
million (INR 
775 
crore) 
has 
been allocated to 
the
AYUSH
 
Department
 
during
 
10th
 
five
 
year
 
plan.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
17
 
In 
2000 
The National Medicinal Plants Board (NMPB)
 
was set
up 
has taken 
many 
schemes 
for 
conservation 
of rare, 
endangered
species
 
with
 
outlay
 
of 
USD
 
65.2
 
million.
 
The 
Traditional 
Knowledge Digital Library 
(TKDL) 
is 
the 
first
Indian
 
effort
 and
 
is
 a
 
proprietary
 
and
 
original
 
database
 
of
traditional
 
knowledge
 
based
 
on 
medicinal
 plants.
 
The TKDL incorporates about 212,000 medicinal formulations
from 
148 
books available in public domain has signed and 
TDKL
database
 
access
 
is
 
approved
 
to
 
International
 
Patent
 
offices.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
18
 
CATEGORIES
 
OF
 
HERBAL
 
COSMETICS
 
The
 
herbal
 
cosmetics
 
can
 
be
 grouped
 
in to
 
following
 
categories
 
:
For 
enhancing 
the
 
appearance
 
of the
 
facial
 
skin
For
 
hair
 
growth 
and
 
care
For
 skin
 
care
 
(
 
acne,
 
pimples, 
sustaining)
Shampoos,
 
soap,
 
powders
 
and
 
perfumery
 
etc
Miscellaneous
 
products
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
19
 
CLSSIFICATION
 
OF
 
HERBAL
 
COSMETICS
 
Herbal
 
cosmetics
 
can
 
be
 
classified
 
on
 
the
 
basis
 
of
 
:
 
1.
Dosage
 
form
2.
Part
 
of
 
the
 
body
 
to
 
be
 
applied
 
for
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan
.
 
20
 
DOSAGE
 
FORMS
 
a.
Emulsion:
b.
Powders:
c.
Cakes:
d.
Oils
 
:
e.
Mucilage
 
:
f.
Jellies
 
:
g.
Suspension
 
:
h.
Paste
 
:
i.
Soaps
 
:
 
j.
 
Solutions
 
:
 
Cold 
cream, 
vanishing 
cream, 
liquid cream
Face
 
powder,
 
Talcum
 
powder,
 
Tooth
 
powder
Rouge
 compacts,
 
make-up 
cake
Hair oils
Hand
 
lotion
Hand
 
jelly, 
wave
 
set
 
jelly,
 
brilliantine
 
jelly
Cosmetic
 
stockings
Tooth
 
paste,
 
deodorant
 
paste
Shampoo
 
soap,
 
shaving
 
soap,
 toilet
 
soap
After 
shave
 
lotions,
 
hair
 
set
 
solutions
 
and
 
lotions
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan
.
 
21
 
Parts
 
or
 
organ 
of
 the 
body
 to
 
be
 
applied 
for
 
Herbal
 
cosmetics
 
for
 
Skin
Powders
Creams
Lotions
Deodorants
Bath
 
and
 
cleansing
 
products
Make-up
 
preparations
Suntan
 
preparation
 
Herbal
 
cosmetics
 
for
 
Hairs
Sha
m
poos
Tonics
Hair
 
dressing
Hair
 
waving
 
preparations
Beard
 
softeners
Shaving
 
media
Depilatories
 
(hair
 
removers)
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
22
 
Herbal cosmetics
 
for
 
Nails
1.
Nail
 
polishes
2.
Manicure
 
preparations
Herbal
 
cosmetics
 
for
 
Teeth
 
and
 
mouth
1.
Tooth
 
powders
2.
Dentifrices
3.
Mouth
 
washes
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
23
 
HERBAL
 
COSMETICS
 
FOR
 
SKIN
 
The
 
herbal
 
approach
 
of
 
proper
 
skin care
 
is 
principally
 
based
 
on three
 
essential
steps.
 
Cleanse
Nourish
Moisture
 
Whatever
 
may
 
be
 
the type
 
of 
skin;
 
these
 
three
 
steps
 
are
 
external
 
care
 
of the
 
skin
to protect from the constant 
effect 
of 
environment, 
stress and 
skins 
natural
process 
of
 
cell
 
degradation
 
decay
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
24
 
Therefore
 
in
 
order
 
to
 
help
 
the
 
skin look
 
young 
and
 
radiant.
 
Exfoliation
 
to
 
remove
 
dead
 
skin
 
cells.
 
Epidermal
 
stimulation
 
for
 
new 
cell
 
growth.
 
Antioxidant
 
properties
 
for 
cellular
 
rejuvenation
 
and
 
repair.
 
Improve
 
capillary
 
blood
 
flow.
 
Penetrating
 
moisture 
and
 
nutrients
 
to
 
replenish
 
all
 
layers
 
of
 
skin.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
25
 
HERBAL
 
COSMETICS
 
FOR
 
VARIOUS
 
TYPES
OF
 
SKIN
 
FOR
 
DRY
 
SKIN
Example
 
of
 
Herbs:
Rubia
 
Cardifolia
 
(Manjista),
 
Triphla,
 
Tulsi,
 
Glycerihza
 
glabra
 
in
 sesame
 
oil.
Fruit
 
face
 
mask:
 Banana
 
or
 
avocado
 
pulp.
 
FOR
 
SENSITIVE
 
SKIN
Example
 
of
 
Herbs:
curcuma
 
longa,
 
triphala,
 
azadircta
 
indica
 
mustaka,
 
nimba
 
in
 
coconut
 
oil.
Fruit
 
face
 
mask: 
Banana
 
or 
pineapple
 
pulp.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan
.
 
26
 
FOR
 
OI
L
Y
 
SKIN
 
Example
 
of
 
Herbs:
 
Tulsi,
 
idhora,
 jatiphata,
 
nimba,
 
terminalia
 arjuna,
Triphla, 
curcuma longa, mustaka 
in 
musterd oil , 
milk,
sour 
milk, 
cream and 
butter 
milk are used as 
gentle
natural
 
cleanser.
 
Fruit
 
face
 
mask:
 
Strawberry
 
or
 
papaya
 
pulp.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
27
 
TYPES
 
OF
 
HERBAL
 
CREAMS
 
COLD
 
CREAMS:
It is 
an 
emulsion 
in 
which 
the 
fat predominates, 
but the 
cooling
effect
 produced
 
when
 
it
 
is
 
applied
 
to
 
the
 
skin
 
is
 
due
 
to
 skin
evaporation
 
of
 
the water
 
contained.
Formula:
Almond
 
oil
 
550
 
parts
White wax 
145 
parts
Borax
 
10
 parts
Water 
290 parts
Rose
 
water
 
5
 
parts
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
28
 
VANISHING
 
CREAMS:
V
ani
s
hing
 
cre
a
ms
 
are
 
al
s
o
 
c
a
lled
 
fou
n
dation
 
cr
ea
ms
 
be
c
au
se
they
 
disappears
 
when rubbed 
into
 
skins.
 
Formula:
Stearic
 
acid
 
130
 
parts
Borax
 crystals
 
28
 
parts
Sodium
 
carbonate
 
12
 
parts
Water
 
740 parts
Rose
 
oil
 
9
 
parts
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
29
 
CLEANSING
 
CREAMS:
A
 
satisfactory
 
cleansing
 
cream
 
is
 
water
 
in
 
oil
 
emulsion
 
that
melts at temperature of body and spreads readily over the
skin.
Formula:
 
Chamomile
 
cleansing
 
creams
 
Chamomile
 
flower
Distilled water
Lemon juice
Sodium
 
benzoate
 
50
 
parts
500
 
parts
5
 
parts
2
 
parts
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
30
 
TYPES
 
OF
 
HERBAL
 
LOTIONS
 
FACE
 
LOTION:
These
 
also
 
c
a
lled
 
t
he
 
b
l
e
a
ch
i
ng
 
lotions
 
a
c
t
u
ally
 
m
ask,
 
r
ather
 
t
h
an
lighten,
 
the
 
color
 
of skin.
 
Like
 
the
 
whitening 
creams.
 
Formula:
Alum
 
10
 
parts
Zinc
 
sulfate
 
1
 
parts
Glycerin
 
1 parts
Tincture 
of benzoin 1 parts
Essence
 
of
 rose
 
30
 dropsa
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
31
 
HERBS
 
FOR
 
SKIN
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
32
 
TYPES
 
OF
 
HERBAL
 
HAIR
 
CARE
 
HAIR
 
OIL:
 
PRODUCTS
The hail 
oils 
used for dressings and 
nourishing 
the 
hairs 
and
grace
 
to
 
appearance
 
of
 
hairs.
This 
preparations is generally used 
to 
increase the growth of
hair
 
and
 
remains
 
healthy.
 
Hair
 
oil
 
should
 
have
 
following
properties:
They
 
should
 
give 
lustre
 
to
 
the 
hair.
Retain
 
them 
soft
 and 
flowing.
Invigorate
 
their
 
growth.
Keep
 
the
 
brain
 
cool.
Should
 
not
 
be
 
sticky.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan
.
 
33
 
QUA
L
ITIES
 
OF
 
AN IDEAL
 
HAIR
PRODUCT
 
Protect
 
the
 
hair
 
cuticle.
Cleans
 
without
 
stripping
 
natural
 
oils.
Replace
 
lost
 
protein,
 
moisture,
 
and
 
nutrients.
Condition
 
without
 
weighing
 
down
 
the
 
hair.
Even
 
without
 
porosity
 
and prevent
 
moisture
 
loss.
Smooth
 
abraded
 
cuticle
 
scales.
Prevent
 
intense
 
drying
 
from
 
environment.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan
.
 
34
 
HAIR
 
LOTION:
 
Hair 
lotion 
has 
a stimulating 
effect 
upon the hair follicles. They
are generally perfumed with oil of rosemary and others ascenes
as it
 
posses
 a
 
good
 
stimulating
 
property.
 
HAIR
 
COLORANTS:
 
These are 
preparations which 
are used for the coloring of hthe
hairs. They 
enhances 
the 
attractiveness of 
gray 
hair. 
They are
applied
 
externally
 
on
 
the
 
hair
 
with
 
help
 
of
 
brush.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan
.
 
35
 
SHAMPOO:
 
Herbal
 
shampoos
 
are
 
the
 
cosmetic
preparations 
that with 
the use of traditional
ayurvedic 
herbs 
are meant for 
cleansing the
hair
 
and
 
scalp.
They
 
are
 used
 
for
 
remove
 surface
 
grease,
dirt,
 
and
 environmental
 
pollutions
 
etc.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
36
 
FUNCTIONS
 
Lubrication
Conditioning
Hair
 
Growth
Maintenance
 
of
 
hair
 
colour
Medication
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
37
 
ADVANTAGES
 
OF
 
HERBAL
 
SHAMPOOS
 
Pure
 
and 
organic 
ingredients
Free
 
from
 side
 
effects
No 
surfactants
 
(Sodium
 
Laural
 
Sulphate)
No
 synthetic
 
additives
No
 
animal
 
testing
Earth
 
and skin
 
friendly
No
 
petroleum
 
based
 
ingredients
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
38
 
Lime
 
Shampoo
 
Formula
 
for
 
Lime
 
shampoo
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
39
 
RE
E
THA
 
(
 
SO
A
P
N
UT)
 
Benefits 
of
 
Reetha
R
e
etha
 
is
 
a
 
very
 
e
f
fective
 
c
l
e
a
n
s
ing
 
agent
 
t
hat
 
keeps
 
t
h
e
 
scalp
gentle
 
and
 
removes
 
any
 
microorganism
 
that
 
may
 
cause
 
infections.
 
Its
 
nat
u
r
a
l
 
cle
a
n
s
i
ng
 
agents
 
are
 
m
o
r
e
 
benef
i
c
i
al
 
t
h
an
 
o
t
her
 
chemical
 
cleansing
 
agents
 
as
 
they
 
cause 
no
 
irritation
 
to 
the 
scalp.
Its
 
various
 
active
 
components
 
nourish
 
the
 
hair
 
and
 
keep
 
it
 
healthy
and smooth.
Reetha
 
adds
 
shine
 
to
 
the
 
hair
 
and
 
brings
 
back
 the
 
natural
 
texture.
B
e
c
a
use
 
of
 
the
 
cl
e
ansing
 
p
r
o
p
erti
e
s,
 
yo
u
 
ca
n
 
also
 
get
 
rid
 
of
dandruff 
and
 
lice
 
by using
 
Reetha 
on 
a
 
regular
 
basis.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
40
 
HE
R
BAL
 
HAIR
 
CO
N
DITION
E
RS
 
Conditioners
 
that
 
adds shine
 
to
 
the
 
hair
 
and
 make 
it
 
tangle
 
free.
 
A
f
ter
 
sh
a
m
pooing
 
i
t
s
 
i
m
por
t
a
n
t
 
t
o
 
use
 
h
a
ir
 
condi
t
ione
r
s
 
t
o
 
gi
v
e
 
i
n
creased
manageability
 
to
 
our
 
hair,
 
leaving
 
it
 
soft
 
it
 
soft
 and
 
shiny.
 
Conditioning
 
is
 
needed
 
especially
 
for
 
dry,
 
brittle
 
hair
 
and 
dandruff
 
treatment.
 
The
 
first
 
and
 
foremost
 
purpose
 
of
 
conditioners
 
is
 
to
 
moisturize
 
the
 
hair
 
and
scalp.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
41
 
HAIR
 
DARKENERS
 
It
 
is
 
the
 
preparations
 
which 
are
 
used
 
to colour
 
hairs.
So
 
many
 
synthetic
 
preparations
 
available
 
in
 
the
 
market,
 
but
 
it
 
has
 
various
 
side
effects
 like
 
skin
 
irritation.
With
 
the
 
use
 
of
 
herbal
 
hair
 
darkeners
 
we
 
can
 
produced
 
desirable
 
colour
 
having
no
 
side
 effects.
V
ar
i
ous
 
h
er
b
a
l
 
prepa
r
ations
 
are
 
a
vai
l
able
 
i
n
 
the
 
m
ar
k
e
t
 
which
 
dar
k
ens
 
t
h
e
hairs.
The
 
herbal
 
preparations
 
not
 
only
 
darkens
 
the
 
hair
 
but
 
it
 
act
 
as
 
the
 
hair
 
tonic
which 
make
 hairs
 
healthy
 
and
 
shiny.
Various
 
natural
 
products
 
used for
 
this
 
like
 
Henna,
 
Amla,
 
Reetha
 
etc.
This
 
herbal
 
products is
 
also
 
used in
 
the
 
combinations.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
42
 
AMLA
 
It
 
is a 
fresh
 
and
 
dried
 
fruit
 
of 
Emblica
 
Officinalis
 
belonging
 
to
 
family
Euphorbiaceae.
It
 
is
 
deciduous
 
tree
 
found in
 
deciduous
 
forest.
In
 
India
 
often
 
cultivated
 
in
 
UP,
 
Gujrat,
 
Rajasthan
 
and Maharashtra.
It
 
is tri-carpellary
 
globose
 
drupe
 
with
 
fleshly
 
edible.(seed
 
inside
 
the
 
fruit)
Its
 
colour
 
is green
 
when
 
unripe
 
but
 
turns
 
yellow
 
on
 
ripening.
The
 
surface
 
of
 
fruit
 
is
 smooth
 
and
 
shiny
with
 
six 
vertical
 
furrows.
The
 
taste
 
is
 
sour
 
and
 
astringent.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
43
 
CHEMICAL
 
CONSTITUENTS
 
Amla
 
contains
 
about
 
5
-
6
 
%
 
T
annins
 
(
g
a
ll
i
c
 
a
c
i
d,
 
el
l
a
g
ic
acid
 
and
 
phyllembelin).
It 
is
 
rich
 
source of
 
natural
 
Vitamin
 
C.
It
 is
 
destroyed
 
on
 
heating
 
and
 
drying
 
in 
sun.
It
 
i
s
 
also
 
reach
 
source
 
o
f
 
pec
t
in
 
an
d
 
m
i
n
e
r
als
 
like
phosphorus,
 
iron
 
and
 
calcium.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
44
 
USES
Amla
 
has
 various
 
uses
 
like
,
1.
Antifungal
2.
Antibacterial
3.
Antiviral
4.
Antioxidants
It
 
is
 
used
 
in
 
the
 
herbal
 
preparations
 
like
1.
Hair
 
dyes
2.
Hair
 
conditioners
3.
Hair
 
Shampoos
4.
Hair
 
Tonic
1.
 
 
Amla
 
is
 
used
 
in
 
the
 
form
 
of
 
fresh
 
juice
 
of
 
the
 
pulp,
 
aqueous
 
extract
as 
 
well
 
as
 its
 
oil.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
45
 
Marketed
 
Preparations
 
Amla
 
Hair
 
oil
 
Amla
 
Candy
 
Amla
 
Juice
 
Amla
 
Capsule
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
46
 
HENNA
 
Henna
 
is
 
co
n
s
i
st
 
o
f
 
dr
i
ed
 
le
a
ves
 
o
f
 
Lawsonia
  
i
nermis
belonging
 
to
 
family
 
Lythraceae
It
 
is
 
cultivated
 as
 
garden
 
plant
 
throughout
 
the
 
India.
Flowers
 
are
 
numerous,
 
small
 
with
 
rose
 
coloured
 
fragrance.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
47
 
CHEMIC
A
L
 
CON
S
TITUENTS
 
The
 
leaves 
contains
 
soluble
 
matter
 
lawsone.
This
 
quinone
 
dissolves
 
in
 
alkaline
 
solution
 
to 
give 
an
 intence
 
red
colour.
Henn
 
leaf
 
also
 
contains
 
flavonoids,
 
coumarins
 
and
 
xanthones.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
48
 
COSMETIC
 
USE
 
It
 
is
 
used
 
in
 
cosmetic
 
preparation
 
in
 
many
 
ways
 
as
 
colouring
 
and
cosmetic
 
ingredients.
It
 
has
 
b
e
e
n
 
u
s
ed
 
a
s
 
a
 
hair
 
col
o
u
r
,
 
nail
 
col
o
ur
 
and
 
decoration
purpose.
The
 
drug
 
is
 
widely
 
used
 
in
 
cosmetology
 
for
 
its
 
dyeing
 
properties
due
 
to
 
strong 
binding
 
property 
of 
lawsone
 
to
 
hairs.
It is
 
also
 
used
 
in
 
the
 
form
 
of
 
shampoo
 
and
 
hair
 
lotions.
Henna
 
is
 
u
s
ed
 
in
 
ayu
r
ved
i
c
 
p
r
eparation
 
f
o
r
 
t
h
e
 
t
reat
m
ent
 
o
f
 
s
k
i
n
ailments,
 
burns
 
and
 
wounds.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan
.
 
49
 
MARKETED
 
PREPARATIONS
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
50
 
HERBS
 
FOR
 
HAIR
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
51
 
HERBALS
 USED
 
IN
 
DENTIFRICE
 
Definition:
 
Dentifrice
 are
 
the
 
preparations
 
intended
 
for
 use
 
with
 
a
toothbrush
 
for
 
the
 purpose
 
of
 
cleaning
 the
 
accessible
surfaces
 
of
 
teeth.
 
They have been prepared 
in paste, 
powder and 
to 
a lesser
extent
 
in 
liquid
 
and
 
block
 
form.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
52
 
Formula:
 
Soap powder 7.2 parts
Saccharin 0.24 parts
Amaranth
 
(solution)
 
1.0
 
parts
Oil
 
of
 
cinnamon
 
0.6
 
parts
Oil
 
of
 
peppermint
 
0.6
 
parts
Oil of clove 1.2 parts
Alcohol
 
90
 
parts
Distilled
 
water
 
120
 
parts
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
53
 
Characteristics
 
of
 dentifrices:
It
 
reduces the
 incidence
 
of
 
tooth
 
decay.
Helps
 
to maintaining
 
the
 
gingivae.
Reduces
 
the intensity
 
of
 
mouth
 
odours.
Good
  
dental
 
h
eal
t
h
 
increases
 
the
 
p
o
ssibil
i
ty
 
of
good
 
general
  
h
ealth,
  
leading
 
s
e
condary
 
result
 
 
of
cleaning
 
teeth.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
54
 
HE
R
BAL
 
EYE SHA
D
OW
 
Eye
 
shadows
 
are
 
used
 
to
 
give
 
a
 
background
 
of 
colour
 
to
the
 
eye.
 
Various
 
shades
 
of eye
 
shadows
 
are
available
 
in
 
market
 
e.g.
 
blue,
 
green,
 
brown.
 
Eye
 
shadows
 
may
 
be
 
either 
in
 solid
 
form
or 
in
 
liquid paste
 
form.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
55
 
Quality
 
characteristics
 
of
 
eye
 
shadow
 
are:
They
 
should
 
h
a
ve
 
good
 
skin
 
a
d
hesion
 
an
d
 
sh
o
uld
 
be
easy to
 
apply.
They
 
should
 
not
 
show
 
oily
 
luster after
 
application.
They
 
should
 
be
 
non-irritant
 
and
 
safe.
 
Formula:
Parsley
Vegetable
 
oil
 
1
 
parts
4
 
parts
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
56
 
GUIDELINES
 
FOR
 
USING
 
HERBS
 
Stop
 
taking
 
an
 
herb
 
if
 
any
 
side
 
effect
 
develops
 
such
 
as
 
allergy,
stomach upset, skin
 
rash
 
or
 
headache.
 
Purchase standardized
 
herbal
 products.
 
Herbal
 
products
 
are 
not
 
recommended
 
for:
Pregnant
 
or
 
lactating
 
women
Infants
 or 
children under
 
05 
years
 of 
age
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
57
 
EVALUTIONS
 
OF
 
THE
 
FINISHED
 
PRODUCT
 
The
 
finished
 
product
 
should
 
be
 
standardized
 
in
 
terms
 
of:
Shelf
 
life
Colour
Toxicity
 
studies
Biological
 
assay
Skin
 
irritation
 
test
Sensitization
 
test
Patch
 
test
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
58
 
STORAGE
 
OF
 
HERBS
 
Herbs
 
should
 
be
 
stored
 
in
 
cool
 
and
 
dry
 place.
Moisture
 
can
 
damage
 
the
 
herbs.
Also
 
moisture
 
promotes
 
bacterial
 
and
 
fungal
 
growth.
Dried
 
herbs
 
should 
be
 
stored
 
in
 air
 
tight
 
container.
Herbs
 
should
 
not be 
stored
 
in
 
direct
 
sunlight.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
59
 
SELECTED
 
HERBAL
 
ACTIVE
 
INGREDIENTS
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
60
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
61
 
SOME
 
MARKETED 
HERBAL
 
PRODUCTS
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
62
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan
.
 
63
 
REVIEW OF GUIDELINES FOR
HE
R
BAL
 
COSM
E
TICS
 
BY
 
P
R
I
V
A
TE
BODIES
 
LIKE 
COSMOS.
 
With 
respect 
to 
preservatives, 
emollients, foaming
agents,
 
emulsifiers
 
and
 
rheology
 
modifiers.
 
COSMOS
 
-
 
INTRODUCTION
 
COSM
etics
 
O
rganic
 
and
 
natural
 
S
tandard
 
Sets
 
certifica
t
ion
 
requirem
e
n
t
s
 
for
 
o
r
gan
i
c
 
and
natural
 cosmetics
 
products 
in Europe.
 
The
 
standard
 
i
s
 
recogni
z
ed
 
globa
l
ly
 
by
 
the
cosmetics
 
industry.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
65
 
In
 
2002
 
five
 
European
 
organisations
 
responsible
 
for
 
setting
organic 
and natural cosmetics 
standards 
met 
at 
a 
trade show 
to
share
 
ideas
 
for broader
 
standards
 
to
 
be
 
used
 
globally.
 
These five
 
COSMOS
 
members
 
are:
BDIH
 
(Germany)
Cosmebio
 
(France)
Ecocert
 
Greenlife
 
SAS
 
(France)
ICEA
 
(I
t
aly)
Soil
 
Association
 
(Great
 
Britain)
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
66
 
To
 
stimulate
 
processes
 for
 
sustainable
 
production
 
and
consumption,
 the
 
organic
 and
 
natural
 
cosmetics
 sector
 
is
 
using
some simple rules 
governed 
by 
the 
principles of prevention and
safety 
at 
all levels 
of the 
chain from 
production of 
raw materials to
the
 
distribution
 
of finished
 
products.
These
 
rules
 
are:
p
r
o
m
o
t
i
n
g
 
t
h
e
 
u
s
e
 
o
f
 
p
r
o
d
u
c
ts
 
f
ro
m
 
o
r
gan
i
c
 
agric
u
lture,
 
and
respecting
 
biodiversity.
us
i
ng
 
na
t
u
r
al
 
resou
r
ces
 
resp
o
nsi
b
l
y
,
 
and
 
respect
i
ng
 
the
environment.
using
 
processing
 
and
 
manufacturing
 
that
 
are
 
clean
 
and
 
respectful
of
 human
 
health
 
and
 
the
 
environment.
integrating
 
and
 
developing
 
the 
concept 
of
 
"Green
 
Chemistry".
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
67
 
THE
 
DOCUMENTS
 
PUBLISHED
 
WITH
THE
 
STANDARD
 
INCLUDE:
 
The
 
Control
 
Manual:
 
Describes
 
how
 
the
 
control
systems
 
works
 
The
 
Labelling
 
Rule
s
:
 
Explains
 
how
 
t
o
 
use
COSMOS
 
labels
 
The
 
Technical
 
Guide:
 
Additional 
information
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan
.
 
68
 
This Standard 
applies 
to 
cosmetic products marketed as
organic 
or 
natural 
and cosmetic ingredients with 
organic
content. 
To 
be certified 
these 
products must comply 
with
the
 
defined
 
criteria
 
on:
 
Origin
 
and
 
processing
 
of
 
ingredients
Composition
 
of
 
total
 
product
Storage,
 
manufacturing
 
and
 
packaging
Environmental
 
management
Labelling
 
and
 
communication
Inspection,
 
certification
 
and
 
control.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan
.
 
69
 
ORIG
I
N
 
AND
 
PROCESSI
N
G
 
OF
 
IN
G
REDIENTS
Ingredients
-
Water
-
Minerals
 
and ingredients
 
of
 
mineral 
origin
-
Physically
 
processed
 
agro-ingredients
-
Chemically
 
processed
 
agro-ingredients
-
Other
 
ingredients.
Calculation
 
rules
 
for
 natural
 
origin
 
percentage
 
% natural origin of total = [weight 
of 
total 
product 
– weight of non-
natural
 
origin
 
ingredients
 
(appendix
 
V.1)
 
 
weight
 
of
 
petrochemical
moieties
 
(appendix
 
V.3)
 
/ weight
 
of
 
all
 ingredients]
 
x
 
100
.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
70
 
INSPECTION,
 
CERTIFICATION
 
AND
CONTROL
 
To 
be
 
certified for 
cosmetic 
ingredients 
or for 
cosmetic ingredients
or 
cosmetic 
products under natural 
or 
organic 
certification according
to
 
this
 
Standard,
 
it
 
is
 
required
 
to:
Have subjected 
the 
manufacturing operation and the ingredients
or
 
products
 
to
 inspection
 
and
 certification
 by
 
an
 authorized
certification 
body; 
this includes any subcontracted manufacturing
plants that
 
are
 
used
 
to
 
process
 
the 
ingredients
 
or
 
products.
Hold
 
a
 
valid 
operational
 
certificate
 
from
 
that
 
body.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
71
 
3. 
undergo 
an 
on-site annual inspection cycle which
may include possible unannounced inspections and
other 
additional
 
inspections,
 
and
 
4. 
allow 
the certification body 
to 
take 
samples 
and
carry out analysis using laboratories conforming 
to
ISO/IEC
 
17025
 for
 
ingredients
 
or
 
contaminants
either
 
on a
 
random
 basis
 or 
in
 
case
 
of 
suspicion.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
72
 
AP
P
RO
V
AL
 
OF
 
INGRE
D
IENTS
 
To
 
be
 
certified
 for
 
cosmetic
 
ingredients
 or
 
cosmetic
products
 
under
 
natural
 
or
 
organic
 
certification
 
according
to
 
this
 
Standard,
 
it
 
is
 
required
 
to:
have
 
subjected
 
the
 
manufacturing
 
operation
 
and
 the
ingredients or products 
to inspection 
and 
certification 
by 
an
authorised
 
certification
 
body;
 
this
 
includes
 
any
 
sub-
contracted manufacturing plants 
that 
are used 
to 
process the
ingredients or products 
hold 
a 
valid 
operational 
certificate
from
 
that
 
body.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
73
 
undergo
 
an
 
on-site
 
annual
 
inspection
 
cycle
which
 
may
 
include
 possible
 
unannounced
inspections
 
and
 
other
 
additional
 
inspections,
and
x allow the 
certification 
body to take 
samples
and
 
carry
 out
 
analysis
 using
 
laboratories
conforming
 
to
 
ISO/IEC
 
17025
 
for
 
ingredients
or 
contaminants either 
on 
a random basis 
or in
case
 of
 
suspicion.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan
.
 
74
 
Certification
 
bodies
 
Bodies
 
certifying
 
to
 this Standard
 
must:
 
be
 
(associate)
 
members
 
of
 
the
 
COSMOS-standard
 
AISBL.
 
be
 
accredited
 
to
 
ISO/IEC
 
Guide
 
65
 
(for
 
any
 
scope).
 
be
 
authorised
 
according
 
to 
the requirements
 
set 
out
 
in 
the
COSMOS
 
standard
 
Control
 
Manual.
 
submit
 
to
 
annual
 
authorisation
 
according
 
to
 
the
 
COSMOS-
standard
Control
 
Manual
 
including
 
any
 
investigations
 
that
 
may
 
be
undertaken
in 
case of
 
complaint
 
or
 
suspicion.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
75
 
GUIDELINES
 
WITH 
RESPECT
 
TO
PRESERVATIVES:
 
 
Cosmetic
 
preservatives
 
allowed
 by
 
Ecocert
 
and
 
COSMOSare
considered
 
more
 
skin
 
friendly
 
than
 
some
 
traditional
 
preservatives.
 
› Most are naturally occurring 
in 
botanicals and so 
are 
considered 
by
the
 certifying bodies to
 
be 
suitable
 
for
 
products
 
marketed
 
as
 
natural.
 
According
 
to
 the
 
latest
 
Ecocert
 
and
 
COSMOS
 
standards
 the
following 
preservatives are allowed in cosmetic products certified 
as
Natural
 
and
 
Organic.
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
76
 
REGULATIONS
 
FOR
 
EMOLLIENT
 
Commericial
 
Name
 
/
Non 
Commercial
1,3-Butylene glycol
Acai
 
oil
Acide
 
stearique
 
tp18/55
Acitire
Activonol
 
-3
akogel
Adeps
 
lanae
 
type
 
sp
 
PHEur
Aecosil
 
Emollient
 
Examples
 
Decyl
 
glcoside
Eutrepe
 
oleracea
 
fruit
 
oil
Palmitic 
and stearic acid
Jojoba
 
esters
propanediol
Hydrogenated
 
vegetable
 
oil
Lanolin
Glyceryl
 
olivate
 
Estolides
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
77
 
GUIDELINES
 
FOR
 
FOAMING
 
AGENT:
 
Chemical
 
name
Lauryl
 
Alcohol
 
L
au
r
yl
 
Alcohol
Myr
is
tyl
 
Alcohol
 
Commercial
 
name
1.
P
ALMEROL
 
1299
 
- Lauryl
 
Alcohol
 
RSPO
 
SCC
 Mass
 Balance
 
(MB)
2.
P
ALMEROL
 
1299
 
- Lauryl
 
Alcohol
3.
P
ALMEROL
 
1498
 
- Myr
is
tyl
 
Alcohol
 
RSPO
 
SCC
 Mass
 Balance
 
(MB)
4.
PALMEROL
 
1498*
 
Myris
tyl
 
Alcohol
 
Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.
 
78
 
REGULATIONS
 
FOR 
EMULSIFYNG
AGENTS
 
COMMERICAL
 
NAME/
 
NON
 
COMMERICAL
EMULSIFIER
 
Cetearyl alochol
Prunus armeniaca
Chloestrol
Glyceryl
 
Glycerin
Glyceryl
 
stearate
 
Glyceryl
 
stearate
 
Akoline
 
PGPR
ALBIWAX
Cholestrol
 
BP
Cosphaderm
 
GMUD
undecylenate
CremerGLYC
 
Refined
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Herbal cosmetics, prepared by Ms. Jayshree S. Bhadane, Assistant Professor of Pharmaceutics, focus on natural products that are safe and effective. The introduction covers the use of herbal products and cosmeceuticals in promoting healthy skin. Advantages include minimal side effects and allergenic reactions, while disadvantages point to slower effects and complex manufacturing processes associated with herbal cosmetics.

  • Herbal cosmetics
  • Natural products
  • Cosmeceuticals
  • Beauty
  • Skin care

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  1. HERBALCOSMETICS Prepared By- Ms. Jayshree S. Bhadane. Designation- Assistant Professor. Department Pharmaceutics. Course & Code - Cosmetic Science (BP809ET) Class- Final Y.B.Pharm Semester- VIII Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 1

  2. COSMETICS According to D & C Act 1940 Any article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on or introduced to or applied to any part of human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting, attractiveness or altering the appearance and includes any article intended for use as component of cosmetics. Included in this definition are products such as skin moisturizers, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, eye and facial makeup preparations, shampoos, permanent toothpastes, and deodorants, as well as any material intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. waves, hair colours, 2

  3. If the safety of a cosmetic product has not been substantiated, the product's label must read: WARNING: The safety of this product has not been determined. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 3

  4. INTRODUCTION Herbal products are safe because they are natural if consumed improperly or in excessive amounts. can be harmful Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with biologically active ingredients purporting to have medical or drug like benefits. They ingredient with medicinal properties that manifests beneficial topical actions and provides protection against degenerative skin conditions. Cosmeceuticals necessary for healthy skin. improve appearance by delivering nutrients 4 Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.

  5. ADVANTAGES OF HERBALCOSMETICS They do not provoke allergic reaction & do not have negative side effects. They are easily incorporated with skin and hair. With small quantity they are very effective as compared to synthetic cosmetics. Easily available & found in large variety & quantity. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 5

  6. DISADVANTAGES OF HERBAL COSMETICS Herbal drugs have slower effects as compare toAllopathic dosage form.Also it requires long term therapy. They are difficult to hide taste and odour. Manufacturing process are time consuming and complicated. No pharmacopoeia defines any specific procedure or ingredients to be used in any of herbal cosmetics. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 6

  7. CURRENT CHALLENGES IN HERBAL FORMULATIONS Herbal preparations are obtained by subjecting herbal substances to treatments such as extraction, distillation, purification, concentration or fermentation. Herbal preparations includes powdered substances, tinctures, extracts, essential oils, expressed juices and processed exudates. Ayurvedic herbal formulations- Solid dosage forms- Gutika and Churna Semisolid Avaleha and Ghrita Liquid Asava,Arishta, Taila expression, fractionation, Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 7

  8. Other herbal formulations includes Tablets, Capsules, creams, lotions, pastes, shampoos, conditioners, Herbal Tea etc. Gels, Herbal Novel formulations like- polymeric nanoparticles, nanocapsules, liposomes, phytosomes, nanoemulsions, transferosomes, microsphere and ethosomes etc. Global market of herbal industry shares about US $62 billion per annum. Herb drug production of India is about US $10 billion per annum with annual export of US $ 1.1 billion while China is worth US $48 billion with export of US $ 3.6 billion per annum. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 8

  9. India is having just 2% global herbal market share. India is lagging behind because of these major factors- Lack of scientific validation and standardization. Lack of Quality and regulatory aspects. Limited evidence based studies on efficacy and safety. Lack of pharmacokinetic studies of bioactive molecules. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 9

  10. LACK OF SCIENTIFIC VALIDATION AND STANDARDIZATION Standardisation: The process of evaluating the quality and purity of crude drugs by means of various parameters like morphological, microscopical, physical, chemical and biological observations. Accuracy of plant identification, evaluation, and isolation of active ingredients is key challenge. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 10

  11. Active ingredients in precautions, because a constituents. plants are in complex form and needs special single medicinal plant consist of hundreds of Medicinal plant properties are influenced by the time of collection, area of plant origin and environmental conditions. Hence medicines is needed for the future advancement of herbal formulation. scientific validation and technological standardization of herbal Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 11

  12. LACK OF QUALITYAND REGULATORY ASPECTS Quality control(QC) of herbal formulations is required for its safety and efficacy . QC assures quality products that reduce the risks associated with herbal medicine. Regulation and legislation of herbal medicines has been enacted in very few countries. Most countries do not have any proper regulation of botanicals and quality of herbal products sold is generally not guaranteed. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 12

  13. European countries- regulated by the European Directive on Traditional Herbal medicinal products. UK- MHRA (Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory agency). India-AYUSH Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 13

  14. QUALITY EVALUATION OF HERBALDRUGS 1. Shape 2. External 1. Colour 2. Odour 3. Taste 4. Texture 1. Qualitative 2. Quantitative 3. SEM studies 4. Powderstudies Macroscopic Microscopic 14 Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.

  15. LACK OF PHARMACOKINETIC STUDIES OF BIOACTIVE MOLECULES Efficacy of drug depends upon its composition as herbal products have complex composition. In vitro assays are cheap and easy, but in herbal preparations sufficient concentration of active constituents at the site of action is difficult. Herbal formulations because of which lack data on their disposition, and biological fate in humans. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 15

  16. Pharmacokinetics are vital Drug development process of understandingADME. To know herbal-drug interaction. Elucidation of metabolic pathways which yields potentially new active compounds and assessment of elimination route and their kinetics. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 16

  17. INITIATIVES TAKEN SO FAR In 2000 GMPcame forAyurvedic, Siddha and Unani. Monographs on herbs and herbal products got included in Indian Pharmacopeia (IP) - 59 monographs in 2007 IP - 89 monographs in 2010 IP In 2005, Ayurvedic Pharmacopeia of India included 258 drugs and the Indian Herbal pharmacopeia included 52 monographs. different About USD 158 million (INR 775 crore) has been allocated to the AYUSH Department during 10th five year plan. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 17

  18. In 2000 The National Medicinal Plants Board (NMPB) was set up has taken many schemes for conservation of rare, endangered species with outlay of USD 65.2 million. The Traditional Knowledge Digital Library (TKDL) is the first Indian effort and is a proprietary and original database of traditional knowledge based on medicinal plants. The TKDL incorporates about 212,000 medicinal formulations from 148 books available in public domain has signed and TDKL database access is approved to International Patent offices. 18 Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.

  19. CATEGORIES OF HERBALCOSMETICS The herbal cosmetics can be grouped in to following categories : For enhancing the appearance of the facial skin For hair growth and care For skin care ( acne, pimples, sustaining) Shampoos, soap, powders and perfumery etc Miscellaneous products 19 Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.

  20. CLSSIFICATION OFHERBALCOSMETICS Herbal cosmetics can be classified on the basis of : 1.Dosage form 2.Part of the body to be applied for Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 20

  21. DOSAGE FORMS a. Emulsion: b. Powders: c. Cakes: d. Oils : e. Mucilage : f. Jellies : g. Suspension : h. Paste : i. Soaps : j. Solutions: Cold cream, vanishing cream, liquid cream Face powder,Talcum powder,Tooth powder Rouge compacts, make-up cake Hair oils Hand lotion Hand jelly, wave set jelly, brilliantine jelly Cosmetic stockings Tooth paste, deodorant paste Shampoo soap, shaving soap, toilet soap After shave lotions, hair set solutions and lotions 21 Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.

  22. Parts or organ of the body to be applied for Herbal cosmetics for Skin Powders Creams Lotions Deodorants Bath and cleansing products Make-up preparations Suntan preparation Herbal cosmetics for Hairs Shampoos Tonics Hair dressing Hair waving preparations Beard softeners Shaving media Depilatories (hair removers) 22 Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.

  23. Herbal cosmetics for Nails 1. Nail polishes 2. Manicure preparations Herbal cosmetics forTeeth and mouth 1. Tooth powders 2. Dentifrices 3. Mouth washes Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 23

  24. HERBALCOSMETICS FOR SKIN The herbal approach of proper skin care is principally based on three essential steps. Cleanse Nourish Moisture Whatever may be the type of skin; these three steps are external care of the skin to protect from the constant effect of environment, stress and skins natural process of cell degradation decay Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 24

  25. Therefore in order to help the skin look young and radiant. Exfoliation to remove dead skin cells. Epidermal stimulation for new cell growth. Antioxidant properties for cellular rejuvenation and repair. Improve capillary blood flow. Penetrating moisture and nutrients to replenish all layers of skin. 25 Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.

  26. HERBALCOSMETICS FOR VARIOUS TYPES OF SKIN FOR DRYSKIN Example of Herbs: Rubia Cardifolia (Manjista),Triphla,Tulsi, Glycerihza glabra in sesame oil. Fruit face mask: Banana or avocado pulp. FOR SENSITIVE SKIN Example of Herbs: curcuma longa, triphala, azadircta indica mustaka, nimba in coconut oil. Fruit face mask: Banana or pineapple pulp. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 26

  27. FOR OILYSKIN Example of Herbs: Tulsi, idhora, jatiphata, nimba, terminalia arjuna, Triphla, curcuma longa, mustaka in musterd oil , milk, sour milk, cream and butter milk are used as gentle natural cleanser. Fruit face mask: Strawberry or papaya pulp. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 27

  28. TYPES OF HERBALCREAMS COLD CREAMS: It is an emulsion in which the fat predominates, but the cooling effect produced when it is applied to the skin is due to skin evaporation of the water contained. Formula: Almond oil 550 parts White wax 145 parts Borax 10 parts Water 290 parts Rose water 5 parts Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 28

  29. VANISHING CREAMS: V anishing creams are also called foundation creams because they disappears when rubbed into skins. Formula: Stearic acid 130 parts Borax crystals 28 parts Sodium carbonate 12 parts Water 740 parts Rose oil 9 parts Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 29

  30. CLEANSING CREAMS: Asatisfactory cleansing cream is water in oil emulsion that melts at temperature of body and spreads readily over the skin. Formula: Chamomile cleansing creams Chamomile flower Distilled water Lemon juice Sodium benzoate 2 parts 50 parts 500 parts 5 parts Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 30

  31. TYPES OF HERBALLOTIONS FACE LOTION: These also called the bleaching lotions actually mask, rather than lighten, the color of skin. Like the whitening creams. Formula: Alum 10 parts Zinc sulfate 1 parts Glycerin 1 parts Tincture of benzoin 1 parts Essence of rose 30 dropsa Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 31

  32. HERBS FOR SKIN Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 32

  33. TYPES OF HERBALHAIR CARE PRODUCTS HAIR OIL: The hail oils used for dressings and nourishing the hairs and grace to appearance of hairs. This preparations is generally used to increase the growth of hair and remains healthy. Hair oil should have following properties: They should give lustre to the hair. Retain them soft and flowing. Invigorate their growth. Keep the brain cool. Should not be sticky. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 33

  34. QUALITIES OFAN IDEALHAIR PRODUCT Protect the hair cuticle. Cleans without stripping natural oils. Replace lost protein, moisture, and nutrients. Condition without weighing down the hair. Even without porosity and prevent moisture loss. Smooth abraded cuticle scales. Prevent intense drying from environment. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 34

  35. HAIR LOTION: Hair lotion has a stimulating effect upon the hair follicles. They are generally perfumed with oil of rosemary and others ascenes as it posses a good stimulating property. HAIR COLORANTS: These are preparations which are used for the coloring of hthe hairs. They enhances the attractiveness of gray hair. They are applied externally on the hair with help of brush. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 35

  36. SHAMPOO: Herbal preparations that with the use of traditional ayurvedic herbs are meant for cleansing the hair and scalp. They are used for remove surface grease, dirt, and environmental pollutions etc. shampoos are the cosmetic Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 36

  37. FUNCTIONS Lubrication Conditioning Hair Growth Maintenance of hair colour Medication Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 37

  38. ADVANTAGES OF HERBALSHAMPOOS Pure and organic ingredients Free from side effects No surfactants (Sodium Laural Sulphate) No synthetic additives No animal testing Earth and skin friendly No petroleum based ingredients Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 38

  39. Lime Shampoo Formula for Lime shampoo 1.Amla 2. Shikakai 3. Khus 4. Char 5. Charilla 6. Reetha 7. Glycerine 8. Lime juice 9. Sodium Benzoate 10. Water 105 gm 180 gm 105 gm 100 gm 100 gm 100 gm 165gm 75ml 2 gm Q.S. to make 2.50 lit. 39 Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.

  40. REETHA( SOAPNUT) Benefits of Reetha Reetha is a very effective cleansing agent that keeps the scalp gentle and removes any microorganism that may cause infections. Its natural cleansing agents are more beneficial than other chemical cleansing agents as they cause no irritation to the scalp. Its various active components nourish the hair and keep it healthy and smooth. Reetha adds shine to the hair and brings back the natural texture. Because dandruff and lice by using Reetha on a regular basis. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. of the cleansing properties, you can also get rid of 40

  41. HERBALHAIR CONDITIONERS Conditioners that adds shine to the hair and make it tangle free. After manageability to our hair, leaving it soft it soft and shiny. shampooing it s important to use hair conditioners to give increased Conditioning is needed especially for dry, brittle hair and dandruff treatment. The first and foremost purpose of conditioners is to moisturize the hair and scalp. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 41

  42. HAIR DARKENERS It is the preparations which are used to colour hairs. So many synthetic preparations available in the market, but it has various side effects like skin irritation. With the use of herbal hair darkeners we can produced desirable colour having no side effects. V arious hairs. herbal preparations are available in the market which darkens the The herbal preparations not only darkens the hair but it act as the hair tonic which make hairs healthy and shiny. Various natural products used for this like Henna,Amla, Reetha etc. This herbal products is also used in the combinations. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 42

  43. AMLA It is a fresh and dried fruit of Emblica Officinalis belonging to family Euphorbiaceae. It is deciduous tree found in deciduous forest. In India often cultivated in UP, Gujrat, Rajasthan and Maharashtra. It is tri-carpellary globose drupe with fleshly edible.(seed inside the fruit) Its colour is green when unripe but turns yellow on ripening. The surface of fruit is smooth and shiny with six vertical furrows. The taste is sour and astringent. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 43

  44. CHEMICALCONSTITUENTS Amla contains about 5-6 % Tannins (gallic acid, ellagic acid and phyllembelin). It is rich source of natural Vitamin C. It is destroyed on heating and drying in sun. It is also reach source of pectin and minerals like phosphorus, iron and calcium. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 44

  45. USES Amla has various uses like, 1. Antifungal 2. Antibacterial 3.Antiviral 4. Antioxidants It is used in the herbal preparations like 1. Hair dyes 2. Hair conditioners 3. Hair Shampoos 4. HairTonic 1. Amla is used in the form of fresh juice of the pulp, aqueous extract as well as its oil. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 45

  46. Marketed Preparations Amla Hairoil Amla Candy Amla Juice Amla Capsule Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 46

  47. HENNA Henna is consist of dried leaves of Lawsonia inermis belonging to family Lythraceae It is cultivated as garden plant throughout the India. Flowers are numerous, small with rose coloured fragrance. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 47

  48. CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS The leaves contains soluble matter lawsone. This quinone dissolves in alkaline solution to give an intence red colour. Henn leaf also contains flavonoids, coumarins and xanthones. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 48

  49. COSMETIC USE It is used in cosmetic preparation in many ways as colouring and cosmetic ingredients. It purpose. has been used as a hair colour, nail colour and decoration The drug is widely used in cosmetology for its dyeing properties due to strong binding property of lawsone to hairs. It is also used in the form of shampoo and hair lotions. Henna is used in ayurvedic preparation for the treatment of skin ailments, burns and wounds. Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan. 49

  50. MARKETED PREPARATIONS 50 Loknete Dr. J.D. Pawar College of Pharmacy, Manur, Kalwan.

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